Thursday, September 18, 2014

Substitute your heating between seasons with an electric space heater

Steibel-Eltron Electric Convection Heater - CNS 50 E - 231542  is a modern surface-mounted convection heater with a sleek European slimline design. CNS-E units are an effective, efficient replacement for traditional baseboard heaters, using significantly less room to accomplish the same heating task.
With its built-in thermostat, a single CNS 50 E is perfect as a stand-alone heating system in bathrooms or small rooms. Multiple CNS-E units can be placed strategically in larger spaces and their temperature settings adjusted individually for maximum comfort control. If used to replace an existing heater with a separate wall-mounted thermostat control, CNS-E heaters may be wired to use that control. Overheat protection is built into the unit.
CNS-E heaters work through natural convection, ensuring draft-free operation. Cool room air flows in the bottom of the unit, is warmed by the heating element, and rises silently out the top to heat the room. The CNS 50 E is designed with a frost protection setting. The lowest thermostat setting will maintain the room above freezing temperatures.
Like all of Stiebel Eltron's products the CNS 50 E series of heaters have an outstanding reliability record. Our three year limited parts warranty is a testament to the confidence we have in our products.

Econo Heater - Electric Panel Heaters  offer out-of-the-way wall mounting and is an economic way of providing efficient electric room heating at a low cost. The new style has the on/off switch on the back right side of the unit to give our new Panel Heaters a sleeker look. Also, the panel heaters have rounded edges.
Using convection technology, heat is mainly generated behind the heater in the space between the panel and the wall, which leads to an efficient up-draft of heat circulated into the room. Econo heaters principle of convection means that about 90% of the heat comes from the back of the panel, while only 10% is radiated from the front of the panel. This form of electric "background" heating is not only very economic, but also safe and efficient.

Electrical Baseboard Heaters / Electric Baseboard Heaters  in 120 Volt & 220/240 Volts.  Use Electrical Space and Room Heaters by Qmark Marley.  Available Electrical Baseboard  installed on walls or Electrical Portable Baseboard Heaters. Your choice. Entire range of Electrical Voltage Thermostats too.

Myson Electric Towel Warmers / Electric Towel Heaters Economical and efficient, a Myson Electric towel warmer is a decorative source of heat that will add comfort to the room as well as keeping your towels warm and dry.
Throughout this section you’ll discover a variety of elegant and fashionable designer towel warmers in our European, Contemporary, Classic and Gem Collections, all coupled with advanced technology to provide efficient and environmentally friendly ways to deliver heat with function and style.

What Size Electric Heater do I need? Click here to see.

For all our Electric Products please click here.

Please call with questions at 866-432-8123

Thursday, September 11, 2014

How to Fill and Purge your Hydronic Heating Systems

A properly plumbed hydronic heating system makes it easy to add water and remove air, during the initial fill / purge and in later servicing.

We remove all of the air to make the hydronic heating system work mechanically correct. Small amounts of air can cause gurgling noises and large amounts of air can cavitate the circulators pumps causing the heating loop to stop flowing, resulting in a lack of heat.

When filling or purging a hydronic heating system, it is easiest when the system is broken down into smaller sections or loops. Each loop / zone is connected to the hydronic boiler fill valve and has the ability to be isolated from the other loops. Ball valves and drains isolate the system.

Water is introduced into the hydronic system in one way, flowing down the piping and out the boiler drain, carrying the air with it.

The process of isolating and filling is repeated until the hydronic system is full of water and the air removed.

Flushing the hydronic system works in reverse, replacing the old water with new.

Flushing the hydronic system is important. The hydronic heating system should be flushed to remove and flux or solder that may be mixed in the water.

How to Fill and Purge your Hydronic Heating System
This is only an example. Actual layouts vary from job to job.

For purge valves and heating supplies please click on the below link...

Thursday, August 28, 2014

Check out Houseneeds sale and clearance page

Take advantage of these cheap prices on Gas Space Heaters, Tankless Water Heaters, Hydronic Heating Supplies, Gas Boilers, Propane Boilers, Wood Stoves Accessories and more. Our Sale Items are always changing so check back often.

Sale Items at the link below....

44 Clearance Items at the link below....

We ship via FEDEX throughout the United States - unless otherwise noted. These products are non-returnable and carry a full warranty unless otherwise stated.  Have any questions please call 866-432-8123.

Tuesday, July 22, 2014

Whole House Fans and Attic Fans

Whole House Fans, Attic Fans and Solar Attic Fans from Qmark Marley, Quiet Cool, Tamarack and HNSF. Whole House Fans and Whole House Attic Fans are a great way to keep your house cooler and save on Air Conditioner Bills.

Whole House Fans pulls heat out of your home and attic bringing in cooler outside air. Save up to 30% on your a/c bills
Quiet Cool Whole House Fans are designed to cool and vent your entire home by pulling warm up and out while drawing fresh cool air in.
Qmark Attic Fans - Marley Roof Mounted Attic Exhaust Fans in 120 Volt Electric
HNSF Solar Attic Fan - 20 Watts Adjustable Solar Pane. Solar Powered Attic Cooling Fans
Qmark Gable Attic Fans - Marley Gable Mounted Attic Exhaust Fans in 120 Volt Electric.
Eco-Breeze Fresh Air Cooling System - Window Unit - Eco-Breeze using Mother Nature to cool your rooms
Eco-friendly sun with Attci Fans that install on the Roof and Gable. You can easily, quickly and economically use the power of the sun to reduce attic heat.
Qmark Gable Attic Fans - Marley Gable Mounted Attic Exhaust Fans in 120 Volt Electric
Please call Sales at if you have any questions about the above products at 866-432-8123.

Thursday, July 17, 2014

New Construction and PEX Radiant Heat FAQ's

1. What do I need?
To properly size most components related to your under floor heating system we highly recommend a heat loss calculation for your project if this is your primary heat source. Why? Heat loss is a critical step, as we can estimate the average output of a radiant floor at 25 to 35 BTU’s per square foot but windows, doors, insulation, and degree days all make a major impact on getting you just what you need.
The most common sizing mistake with in floor heat is in oversizing. This not only makes the new radiant heating system cost more to install, but also forces it to operate inefficiently, break down more often, and cost more to operate. Oversized heating equipment also often creates uncomfortable and large temperature swings in the house plus it will short cycle the hot water boiler and run outside the design parameters costing you more money.
We are not in the business of selling equipment that you don’t need and a little work up front can save you thousands of dollars in costs over the life of your system.

2. How do I calculate my heat loss?
Have your architect or builder supply it to you as in many states like NH or CA it is required.  Calculate it yourself using software - go back to the Heat Lost Calucator under Pex Tubing Radiant Installs. Or use one of the two different rough guides below.
Insulation Type and Climate Zone
(Please Note: We highly recommend that you do a heat loss calculation and provide the information below as a starting place)
 1)  No insulation in walls, ceilings, or floors; no storm windows; windows and doors fit loosely .... 60 to 100 BTU's per Sq. Ft.
2)  R-11 insulation in walls and ceilings; no insulation in floors over crawl spaces; no storm windows; doors and windows fit fairly tight .... 50 to 60 BTU's per Sq. Ft.
3)  R-19 insulation in walls, R-30 in ceilings, and R-11 in floors; tight-fitting storm windows or double pane windows .... 29 to 35 BTU's per Sq. Ft.
4)  "Energy Star Rated" house with R-24+ wall insulation, R-40 in ceilings, and R-19 in floor; tight-fitting storm windows or double pane windows; vapor barrier sealed carefully during construction .... 20 to 25 BTU's per Sq. Ft.
5)  SIP or Earth-sheltered house with little exposure; argon filled windows, and R40+ insulated .... 10 to 15 BTU's per Sq. Feet.

Climate Zone
Heating Sq. Footage by Climate Zone for a pre-1970's House
Houston, TX ZONE 1 --> 15 - 25 Btu's per square foot
Los Angles, CA ZONE 2 --> 25 - 30 Btu's per square foot
St. Louis, MO ZONE 3 --> 30 - 40 Btu's per square foot
New York, NY ZONE 4 --> 40 - 50 Btu's per square foot
Minneapolis, MN ZONE 4 --> 50 - 60 Btu's per square foot

Outdoor Design Temperature
The Outdoor Design Temperature (ODT), also referred to as the 2.5% design day temperature, is not the coldest day ever, but rather a temperature that is achieved 97.5% of the time.
ODT Chicago = - 8 Degree F
ODT Denver = 1 Degree F
ODT Minnesota = -12 Degree F
ODT Washington = 17Degree F
Simply multiply the appropriate factor above by your home's total heated square footage to arrive at your approximate required heating capacity. For example, if you live in Zone 3, your home is well insulated, and you have 2000 heated square feet, the equation will look like this:
 2000 square feet of "Energy Star" grade new construction but with lots of windows = 35 BTU's per sq ft. is 70,000 Btu Load
Then, to calculate the output on a hot water boiler, multiply its efficiency rating by its listed input rating for the actual Btu output of heat. An example of a medium efficiency boiler. Of course, this is a very simple way to look at efficiency - but actually, it is more complicated. Factors such as, how long does it take to get to efficiency, condensing, direct vent or not, using pex and amound of water in the boiler all effect true efficiency.
87,000 Btu input X .86 efficiency = 73,000 Btu actual output

3. Existing Heating System
All hot water boilers sold in the U.S. must have a rating plate. Check the rating plate and get the:
1) For Example --> 92,000 Btu Input of your Hot Water Boiler X .80 efficiency of your Boiler = 73,000 Btu actual output
2) Count the total linear footage of baseboard in the home. Multiply this number by 600 BTU’s. This will give you the BTU output at 180 Degrees F. This number should be close to the Boilers actual output.
There are a few ways to calculate heat loss. Use the above information to get a rough idea. We strongly recommend that you download a heat loss calculator. Why? Because windows and doors make a huge difference to the heat load of your home. Once you have an idea of your requirements, we will be able to get you a quote.

4. Ways to install Radiant PEX with an existing floor
PEX Tubing Under the Floor - Typically under hardwood or tile flooring
PEX In Floor - Typlically in poured cement
PEX Over Floor - Typlically using ThermalBoard, VersaTherm or Creatherm Radiant Heat Mass

5. Radiant Slab on Grade
For residential slabs we recommend 1/2 Inch PEX tubing to be 12 Inch on center. Along walls with lots of glass or high heat loss the PEX should be 6 Inch to 9 Inch on center on the outside walls for the first 2 feet, and 12 Inch on center everywhere else.

When figuring the over all length of tubing you will need you divide any 6 Inch spacing area by .5, divide any 9 Inch spacing area by .75 and any 12" spacing area by 1. This will give you the over all length of the PEX needed in the slab. You will need to add the length of tubing needed to get up to the pex manifold.

Typically pex manifolds are mounted 18 Inch to 24 Inch off the slab.

6. Installing PEX Tubing
Following good piping practices the maximum length of each 1/2 Inch PEX tubing runs should be no longer than 300 feet (300-foot maximum is code in many places). When the pipe loops exceed 300 feet you need to use larger circulators (pumps) to maintain this temperature drop. With larger circulators initial cost is higher and they usually require twice as much electricity to run. Most good radiant installers try to limit piping loops to below 300 feet.

There are many correct ways of installing in floor heat PEX within a slab. The best way is tying the PEX to the reinforcing mesh or rebar. When attaching the PEX Tubing to wire reinforcing mesh or rebar it is recommend that a zip tie be used every 2 feet of PEX Tubing.

Another way to install PEX in a slab is attaching the PEX Tubing to ridged insulation. The use of insulation screw clips or large plastic staples is common.

We recommend an insulation screw clip or staple every 2 feet if installing the tubing over insulation only (no wire mesh). If you use 2 Inch polystyrene insulation it is recommended that you use a 6 mil. polyethylene moisture barrier.

Installing the manifolds and keeping the lines under pressure (air or water pressure) for the concrete pour is highly recommended and required by code in many locations.

7. Insulation
Insulation is always needed with any radiant heating system and especially needed under slabs. Why, if the soil has any moisture in it the moisture will wick away the heat at a tremendous rate making your system inefficient.

Today many radiant slabs being installed with insulation only around the perimeter. Their belief is that you should store the heat in the ground for use later. One problem with this notion is that a large portion of the heat is absorbed into the ground and never warms your home. Why do you want to pay to heat the ground? Slab Insulation is important for the entire slab.

We recommend Slab Shield Insulation which was designed specifically for under slab applications. Manufactured using two separate layers of 1/4 Inch polyethylene foam with a pure aluminum center. This product is available in 4 Feet x 63 Feet rolls for easy application. It is simply unrolled and taped together (this is necessary for a complete vapor barrier to be achieved). With Slab-Shield there's no time wasted installing 4 Feet x 8 Feet foam boards. With a puncture resistance of 92.9psi you can work and walk on top of it without it crumbling apart.

8. Here's a rough idea of what it will cost
Below are some pricing guidelines. These numbers are higher than most proposals, but can act as a "stand-in" as you're creating your construction budget.

Mid Efficiency (87%+) hot water boiler: $1,500 to $3,000
High Efficiency (95%+) hot water boiler: $2,200 to $5,500
Per zone controls: $250.00 ea. zone
Slab on grade Radiant: $1.20 per square
Wood Underfloor Radiant: $1.70 Per square
Myson radiators: $260 per 5000 BTU
People consider radiant heating for its superior economic and comfort advantages. But with energy prices rising 35%+ this year, whichever efficient system you choose, you’ll appreciate the cost savings!

To view Houseneeds products follow this link:

Thursday, July 10, 2014

How to Size Copper Tees for Hydronic Heating Systems

Tees are generally measured from the "Run" to the "Bull".

The "Run" is the left-to-right or the length of the Tee.

The "Bull" is the top part of the Tee.

For example if a Tee is 3/4" X 3/4" X 1/2", then the left inside diameter is 3/4", the right inside diameter is 3/4" and the top inside diameter part is 1/2". Tees where the run and the bull are not uniform are referred to as "Reducing Tees".

How to Size Copper Tees for Hydronic Heating Systems
Click on the product links below to view sale items:
  • Monoflow Tees
  • Copper Tees
  • 45° Copper Elbows
  • 90° Copper Elbows
  • Copper Couplings
  • End Caps
  • Sharkbite Lead Free
  • Copper Adapters
  • Boiler Drains
  • Baseboard Tees
  • Brass Fittings
  • Tuesday, June 10, 2014

    Eco Breeze the Humidity and Temperature Solution

    Whole-house fans were mainly popularized in the United States through the 1950s-60s as an inexpensive method to cool homes. A whole house fan uses fresh air ventilation cooling which is simple and much lower in cost than air conditioning cooling. The fan cools the house by drawing cool outdoor air inside through open windows and exhausting hot indoor air through the attic to the outside. As the outdoor temperature drops in the evening, the windows are opened and the fan is turned on. In the morning the process is reversed. The fan is turned off and the windows are closed, trapping cool air in the home and sealing out the hot day time air. Since the 1950’s, whole-house fans have been improved with insulated vent doors, quieter fans and motors, and remote controls but the fundamental manual cooling process of opening and closing of windows remains unchanged.

    Eco Breeze – The Paradigm shift
    Eco Breeze provides the same low cost fresh air ventilation cooling in a completely different way. The result is reduced fan noise, convenient operation, lower installation cost, and improved comfort.

    Monitors outside temperature and humidity – No more humid air
    High humidity makes us uncomfortable and makes air conditioners work harder to remove moisture. Eco Breeze monitors outdoor humidity and only provides fresh air cooling when the outside air is dry and cool.

    Individual room cooling – Quiet operation
    Eco Breeze is designed to cool individual rooms rather than the whole-house. This produces the same air tangential fanchanges as a whole house fan yet requires a fraction of the air flow. The lower air flow and the use of tangential blowers makes the unit significantly quieter than a whole-house fan. The fan power is also a fraction of a whole house fan resulting in energy savings even when multiple fans are installed in a home.

    Simple Installation – No holes to the attic – No Installation cost
    The Eco Breeze installation is simple and can be done in minutes. It installs in a window and does not require cutting holes to access an attic, the addition of attic ventilation openings or the addition of electrical wiring.

    Automated Operation – No windows to open and close
    Eco Breeze exhausts the hot air to the outdoors and also brings the cool air into a room. The louvers automatically open to provide cooling and automatically close to seal the cool air inside ending the daily routine of opening and closing windows.

    Seamless integration with air conditioning – No need to turn off the air conditioner
    Eco Breeze monitors the indoor temperature and humidity and will only bring in the outside air if it is lower in temperature and humidity. The air conditioner thermostat will sense the cooler air and keep the air conditioner off.

    Optimum use of Fresh Air Cooling – No more guessing
    Eco Breeze has a dynamic temperature and humidity sensing system that automatically uses outside fresh air for cooling any time that it is available. In midsummer fresh air cooling may be available for a few hours a day in the late night and early morning in even the hottest regions. Eco Breeze will automatically save money even when you are sleeping. In the other seasons, Eco Breeze can operate mornings, evenings, and nights, and sometimes sizeable parts of the daytime.

    Rain Guard System – No wet floors
    Eco Breeze has a unique rain guard to prevent rain from blowing into your room even when it is operating. This completely eliminates the hassle of closing windows during rain storms.
    Eco-Breeze Fresh Air Cooling System - Window Unit - Eco-Breeze installed view from inside
    For further information please call 866-432-8123 or click on the below link: