The earth has a much more constant temperature than the air. It might be 100 degrees in summer and -40 degrees in winter where you live. But a few feet down, the earth will always be a steady temperature.
For every 100 feet you go down into the earth, the temperature rises 1.5 degrees. So if you were to dig down to a depth of 600 feet, assuming the temperature a few feet below ground is 60 degrees, the deeper rock would have a temperature of
69 degrees.
Tuesday, May 3, 2011
Wednesday, April 27, 2011
Boiling Temperature of Water At Different Altitudes
Approximate Boiling Temperatures of Water
Altitude........Temperature
Sea Level.......212 degrees F
984 ft............210 degrees F
2,000 ft........208 degrees F
3,000 ft........206 degrees F
5,000 ft........203 degrees F
7,500 ft........198 degrees F
10,000 ft.......194 degrees F
20,000 ft.......178 degrees F
26,000 ft.......168 degrees F
Note: Each 500 foot increase in altitude causes a drop of about 1° in the boiling point.
Altitude........Temperature
Sea Level.......212 degrees F
984 ft............210 degrees F
2,000 ft........208 degrees F
3,000 ft........206 degrees F
5,000 ft........203 degrees F
7,500 ft........198 degrees F
10,000 ft.......194 degrees F
20,000 ft.......178 degrees F
26,000 ft.......168 degrees F
Note: Each 500 foot increase in altitude causes a drop of about 1° in the boiling point.
Boiling Temperature Of Water At Different Altitudes
Approximate Boiling Temperatures of Water
Altitude TemperatureSea Level 212 degrees F
984 ft. 210 degrees F
2,000 ft. 208 degrees F
3,000 ft. 206 degrees F
5,000 ft. 203 degrees F
7,500 ft. 198 degrees F
10,000 ft. 194 degrees F
20,000 ft. 178 degrees F
26,000 ft. 168 degrees F
Note: Each 500 foot increase in altitude causes a drop of about 1° in the boiling point.
Altitude TemperatureSea Level 212 degrees F
984 ft. 210 degrees F
2,000 ft. 208 degrees F
3,000 ft. 206 degrees F
5,000 ft. 203 degrees F
7,500 ft. 198 degrees F
10,000 ft. 194 degrees F
20,000 ft. 178 degrees F
26,000 ft. 168 degrees F
Note: Each 500 foot increase in altitude causes a drop of about 1° in the boiling point.
Wednesday, April 20, 2011
Home Energy Conservation and Tips
Saving energy means more dollars in your pocket, but it is also a powerful way to save our valuable resources. Energy conservation is the most important green initiative that we should take to heart and practice.
We can start with small steps to lighten the "footprints" we leave behind for future generations like the simple changing of a light bulb which can make a dramatic difference in energy efficiency and cost savings (standard incandescent light bulbs with compact fluorescent light bulbs (CFLs) can save 75% of lighting cost).
A surprisingly large number of electrical products—TVs to microwave ovens to air conditioners—cannot be switched off completely without being unplugged. These products draw power 24 hours a day, often without the knowledge of the consumer. We call this power consumption "standby power."
An individual product draws relatively little standby power but a typical American home has forty products constantly drawing power. Together these amount to almost 10% of residential electricity use.
Identify and reduce these energy drains by using smart strips or unplugging when not in use.
Energy Saving Tips
Turn off the lights when you leave a room.
Replace energy-hungry incandescent lights with fluorescent lighting.
Check with your utility company for energy conservation tips.
Use a programmable thermostat that automatically turns off
the air conditioner or heater when you don't need them.
Add insulation to your home.
Use a fan instead of air conditioning.
Use an EPA-approved wood burning stove or fireplace insert
Insulate your water heater or buy a tankless unit.
Install low-flow showerheads.
We can start with small steps to lighten the "footprints" we leave behind for future generations like the simple changing of a light bulb which can make a dramatic difference in energy efficiency and cost savings (standard incandescent light bulbs with compact fluorescent light bulbs (CFLs) can save 75% of lighting cost).
A surprisingly large number of electrical products—TVs to microwave ovens to air conditioners—cannot be switched off completely without being unplugged. These products draw power 24 hours a day, often without the knowledge of the consumer. We call this power consumption "standby power."
An individual product draws relatively little standby power but a typical American home has forty products constantly drawing power. Together these amount to almost 10% of residential electricity use.
Identify and reduce these energy drains by using smart strips or unplugging when not in use.
Energy Saving Tips
Turn off the lights when you leave a room.
Replace energy-hungry incandescent lights with fluorescent lighting.
Check with your utility company for energy conservation tips.
Use a programmable thermostat that automatically turns off
the air conditioner or heater when you don't need them.
Add insulation to your home.
Use a fan instead of air conditioning.
Use an EPA-approved wood burning stove or fireplace insert
Insulate your water heater or buy a tankless unit.
Install low-flow showerheads.
Tuesday, April 12, 2011
Solar Collectors
EVACUATED TUBE COLLECTORS:
Another type of active solar collector consists of several
glass tubes, each of which has concentric inner and outer
walls. The annular space between these glass tubes has
been evacuated of air and thus acts like a Thermos®
bottle. Convective heat transfer between the inner and
outer glass tubes is essentially eliminated. A coated
copper absorber strip with attached tubing is located
within the inner glass tube, as shown in figure 12.
Most current-generation evacuated tubes have a
specialized fluid sealed within the internal copper tubing.
When heated, this fluid changes from liquid to vapor
and rises toward the top of the tube. It then passes into
a small copper capsule that fits tightly into a manifold
assembly at the top of the collector. Heat conducts
though this copper capsule into fluid circulating along
the manifold. The fluid sealed within the evacuated
tubes never contacts the fluid in the manifold. As heat
is released from the fluid within the evacuated tube, it
condenses back to a liquid and flows back to the bottom
of the tube ready to repeat the cycle.
FLAT PLATE COLLECTORS:
The principal component in this type of collector is the
absorber plate, which is usually an assembly of copper
sheet and copper tubing. The top surface of the absorber
plate is coated with dark colored paint or electroplated
“selective surface” coating that absorbs the vast majority
of solar radiation striking it. The instant solar radiation
strikes this surface it is converted to thermal energy
(e.g., heat). The copper sheet acts as a wick to conduct
this heat toward the copper tubing that is welded or
otherwise bonded to the sheet. Heat moves across the
copper sheet toward the tubes because the fluid flowing
through the tubes is cooler than the absorber sheet. This
fluid absorbs the heat and carries it out of the collector.
To minimize heat loss, the absorber plate is usually
housed in an enclosure made of aluminum and capable of
withstanding many years of exterior exposure. The sides
and back of this enclosure are insulated with materials
capable of withstanding temperatures in excess of 350ºF,
which might occur if the collector is exposed to intense
sunlight without fluid flow through its absorber plate.
The upper surface of the enclosure is usually tempered
glass with a low iron oxide content. Tempered glass can
withstand high thermal stress as well as potential impact
from hailstones or other objects. Low iron oxide content
glass minimizes absorption of solar radiation as it passes
through on its way to the absorber plate.
Another type of active solar collector consists of several
glass tubes, each of which has concentric inner and outer
walls. The annular space between these glass tubes has
been evacuated of air and thus acts like a Thermos®
bottle. Convective heat transfer between the inner and
outer glass tubes is essentially eliminated. A coated
copper absorber strip with attached tubing is located
within the inner glass tube, as shown in figure 12.
Most current-generation evacuated tubes have a
specialized fluid sealed within the internal copper tubing.
When heated, this fluid changes from liquid to vapor
and rises toward the top of the tube. It then passes into
a small copper capsule that fits tightly into a manifold
assembly at the top of the collector. Heat conducts
though this copper capsule into fluid circulating along
the manifold. The fluid sealed within the evacuated
tubes never contacts the fluid in the manifold. As heat
is released from the fluid within the evacuated tube, it
condenses back to a liquid and flows back to the bottom
of the tube ready to repeat the cycle.
FLAT PLATE COLLECTORS:
The principal component in this type of collector is the
absorber plate, which is usually an assembly of copper
sheet and copper tubing. The top surface of the absorber
plate is coated with dark colored paint or electroplated
“selective surface” coating that absorbs the vast majority
of solar radiation striking it. The instant solar radiation
strikes this surface it is converted to thermal energy
(e.g., heat). The copper sheet acts as a wick to conduct
this heat toward the copper tubing that is welded or
otherwise bonded to the sheet. Heat moves across the
copper sheet toward the tubes because the fluid flowing
through the tubes is cooler than the absorber sheet. This
fluid absorbs the heat and carries it out of the collector.
To minimize heat loss, the absorber plate is usually
housed in an enclosure made of aluminum and capable of
withstanding many years of exterior exposure. The sides
and back of this enclosure are insulated with materials
capable of withstanding temperatures in excess of 350ºF,
which might occur if the collector is exposed to intense
sunlight without fluid flow through its absorber plate.
The upper surface of the enclosure is usually tempered
glass with a low iron oxide content. Tempered glass can
withstand high thermal stress as well as potential impact
from hailstones or other objects. Low iron oxide content
glass minimizes absorption of solar radiation as it passes
through on its way to the absorber plate.
Tuesday, March 29, 2011
Types of Venting
A Type - Double Wall, Stainless and Insulated between walls
B Type – Double Wall, Air between walls (Galvanized outer - Aluminum inner)
C Type – Single Wall Stainless (Z-Vent)
B Type – Double Wall, Air between walls (Galvanized outer - Aluminum inner)
C Type – Single Wall Stainless (Z-Vent)
Wednesday, March 23, 2011
Roof Pitch by Degrees
Roof Pitch and the corresponding degrees:
12/1 = 4 degrees
12/2 = 9.5
12/3 = 14
12/4 = 18.5
12/5 = 22.5
12/6 = 26.5
12/7 = 30.5
12/8 = 33.75
12/9 = 37
12/10 = 40
12/11 = 42.5
12/12 = 45
12/1 = 4 degrees
12/2 = 9.5
12/3 = 14
12/4 = 18.5
12/5 = 22.5
12/6 = 26.5
12/7 = 30.5
12/8 = 33.75
12/9 = 37
12/10 = 40
12/11 = 42.5
12/12 = 45
Tuesday, March 8, 2011
High Altitude NG Or LP Ratings
For operation at elevations above 2000 feet, the equipment ratings (NG or LP gas) shall be reduced 4% for each 1000 feet above 2000 feet.
From 4000 to 10,000 feet a CO2 adjustment with a flue gas analyzer should be used for all gas appliances.
From 4000 to 10,000 feet a CO2 adjustment with a flue gas analyzer should be used for all gas appliances.
Tuesday, February 22, 2011
Common Plumbing Terms
AGA - American Gas Association
CC - Copper x Copper
NPT - National Pipe Thread (Standard)
Dia.- Diameter
FGH - Female Garden Hose
FHT - Female Hose Thread
FIP - Female Iron Pipe
FPT - Female Pipe Thread
IPS - Iron Pipe Size
MGH - Male Garden Hose
MHT - Male Hose Thread
MIP - Male Iron Pipe
MPT - Male Pipe Thread
GPM - Gallons Per Minute
OD - Outside Diameter
ID - Inside Diameter
SWT - Sweat
THD - Thread
CP - Chrome Plated
PB - Polished Brass
SF - Satin Finish
SS - Stainless Steel
CC - Copper x Copper
NPT - National Pipe Thread (Standard)
Dia.- Diameter
FGH - Female Garden Hose
FHT - Female Hose Thread
FIP - Female Iron Pipe
FPT - Female Pipe Thread
IPS - Iron Pipe Size
MGH - Male Garden Hose
MHT - Male Hose Thread
MIP - Male Iron Pipe
MPT - Male Pipe Thread
GPM - Gallons Per Minute
OD - Outside Diameter
ID - Inside Diameter
SWT - Sweat
THD - Thread
CP - Chrome Plated
PB - Polished Brass
SF - Satin Finish
SS - Stainless Steel
Thursday, February 17, 2011
Sizing An Electric Tankless Water Heater
When sizing an electric tankless water heater for your home remember to look at the manufactures recommended electric service to the house (in Amperage) for each model you are considering. A common mistake when ordering online is to look at the 220/240 Volts and not the Amperage, often resulting in getting the wrong size and the wasted time of a return.
Our electric tankless water heaters are 97% efficient and are not subject to stand-by losses of conventional tank type water heaters.
This offers a 20% or more savings on the hot water portion of your bill.
Our electric tankless water heaters are 97% efficient and are not subject to stand-by losses of conventional tank type water heaters.
This offers a 20% or more savings on the hot water portion of your bill.
Friday, February 11, 2011
Energy Tips
1. If you spend $2000 a year on fuel consider replacing an older boiler (65% efficiency) with a 95% high efficiency boiler. This could save you up to $580 dollars a year!
2. The heating equipment in your home needs regular tune-ups just like your car. Having a professional clean and calibrate your boiler every year can typically save you 5-8% on your bill.
3. Radiant heat is not only more comfortable to your body but you can see savings of 10%-30% in most residences and up to 60% in shops, garages, and warehouses.
4. Check the furnace filter each month, and clean or replace it as needed. Dirty filters block airflow through your heating equipment, increasing your energy bill and shortening the equipment’s life.
5. Fans can suck all the heat out of the average house in little more than an hour. Minimize use of ventilation fans such as bathroom and kitchen hood fans during cold temps.
2. The heating equipment in your home needs regular tune-ups just like your car. Having a professional clean and calibrate your boiler every year can typically save you 5-8% on your bill.
3. Radiant heat is not only more comfortable to your body but you can see savings of 10%-30% in most residences and up to 60% in shops, garages, and warehouses.
4. Check the furnace filter each month, and clean or replace it as needed. Dirty filters block airflow through your heating equipment, increasing your energy bill and shortening the equipment’s life.
5. Fans can suck all the heat out of the average house in little more than an hour. Minimize use of ventilation fans such as bathroom and kitchen hood fans during cold temps.
Monday, February 7, 2011
What is a BTU
British thermal unit: a unit of heat equal to the amount of heat required to raise one pound of water one degree Fahrenheit at one atmosphere
Related Amounts:
1 Watt = 3.413 BTU*
1 Gallon Propane = 91,330 BTU*
1 Gallon Fuel Oil (#2) = 138,690 BTU*
1 Therm (of any fuel) = 100,000 BTU*
1 Ton = 12,000 BTU*
*(US Dept of Energy)
Related Amounts:
1 Watt = 3.413 BTU*
1 Gallon Propane = 91,330 BTU*
1 Gallon Fuel Oil (#2) = 138,690 BTU*
1 Therm (of any fuel) = 100,000 BTU*
1 Ton = 12,000 BTU*
*(US Dept of Energy)
Monday, January 24, 2011
Bosch Parts
Bosch wants customers to verify part numbers, because part numbers can change from one product manual to the next (often when they are reprinted). This is to help save your time because if you order the incorrect part it is not returnable.
So please call Bosch toll free 866 330 2730
Link to Page:
http://www.houseneeds.com/shop/Heatingproducts/waterheating/parts/waterheaterrepairparts.asp
Link to Search (just put part number in the search box):
http://www.houseneeds.com/search.asp
So please call Bosch toll free 866 330 2730
Link to Page:
http://www.houseneeds.com/shop/Heatingproducts/waterheating/parts/waterheaterrepairparts.asp
Link to Search (just put part number in the search box):
http://www.houseneeds.com/search.asp
Thursday, January 13, 2011
Protect Your Electronics
Protect your electronics and your entire electrical system in ways no other product can offer. Specialized equipment like electronics, personal computers, and appliances will have maximum surge and spike protection. POM PowerGuard® is rated to take 5 lightning hits in 1 second and still keep on working. You can't blow a magnetic choke (with a 5 year warranty it is a small price to pay to protect your investment)*. And POM PowerGuard® can also improve sound and picture quality for audio and video equipment, including the most sophisticated home entertainment units.
Remember POM PowerGuard®:
Protects the entire house from lightning, spikes and surges
Reduces energy consumption
Extends life of motors and appliances
Remember POM PowerGuard®:
Protects the entire house from lightning, spikes and surges
Reduces energy consumption
Extends life of motors and appliances
Thursday, January 6, 2011
Monday, October 11, 2010
A Circulator Is Like a Ferris Wheel
Once the system completely filled with water, all the circulator has to do is move it around. It helps to think of a heating system as a Ferris wheel. When a Ferris wheel turns, the weight going up balances the weight coming down. There’s no lifting going on here, there’s only turning. That’s because everything is in perfect balance. The Ferris wheel’s motor doesn’t have to do any lifting. All it has to do is overcome the friction in the bearings (and in the air, of course) to set the big wheel in motion.
We use the term "Pump Head" to describe the force the circulator develops to overcome pressure drop. When we work with closed hot water heating systems, "Pump Head" has nothing to do with the height of the building. It has only to do with the circulator’s ability to overcome friction. That’s because the system is completely filled with water. Height, as far as the circulator is concerned, doesn’t exist. The circulator doesn’t know (or care!) if the building is 100 feet high and ten feet wide, or ten feet high and 100 feet wide. All it knows is friction.
Static pressure has nothing to do with the number of fittings and valves or the width of the building’s piping network. Static pressure has only to do with gravity, and the weight of the column of water.
"Pump Head," on the other hand, has a lot to do with the number of fittings or valves and the size of the building’s piping network. But it has nothing to do with gravity or the fill pressure of the system.
The water has to squeeze through this smaller opening to get out of the volute. The effect you get is similar to what happens when you put your thumb over the end of a garden hose. The velocity increases, doesn’t it? Well, that velocity is the force that moves the water around the system’s pressure drop. Remember, there’s no lifting going on here, nor pulling or pushing either. Circulators turn the water, just like a big Ferris wheel.
We use the term "Pump Head" to describe the force the circulator develops to overcome pressure drop. When we work with closed hot water heating systems, "Pump Head" has nothing to do with the height of the building. It has only to do with the circulator’s ability to overcome friction. That’s because the system is completely filled with water. Height, as far as the circulator is concerned, doesn’t exist. The circulator doesn’t know (or care!) if the building is 100 feet high and ten feet wide, or ten feet high and 100 feet wide. All it knows is friction.
Static pressure has nothing to do with the number of fittings and valves or the width of the building’s piping network. Static pressure has only to do with gravity, and the weight of the column of water.
"Pump Head," on the other hand, has a lot to do with the number of fittings or valves and the size of the building’s piping network. But it has nothing to do with gravity or the fill pressure of the system.
The water has to squeeze through this smaller opening to get out of the volute. The effect you get is similar to what happens when you put your thumb over the end of a garden hose. The velocity increases, doesn’t it? Well, that velocity is the force that moves the water around the system’s pressure drop. Remember, there’s no lifting going on here, nor pulling or pushing either. Circulators turn the water, just like a big Ferris wheel.
Tuesday, October 5, 2010
Electro Boiler with WarmFlow technology
The Electro Boilers are 100% efficient and the price per KW/h determines the cost of operation. Most models have a built-in electronic aquastat and WarmFlo technology.
WarmFlo will automatically modulate (delivers just the heat you need) eliminating unnecessary energy consumption.
WarmFlo will automatically modulate (delivers just the heat you need) eliminating unnecessary energy consumption.
Friday, September 24, 2010
Why Thermal Board works so well:
Non-structural Thermalboard™ is designed specifically for subfloor applications. Thermalboard™ is constructed of a dense composite board covered with aluminum that spreads the heat evenly and quickly from the hydronic tubing. It heats rapidly and is easy to control with setback thermostats for maximum energy efficiency. It contains just enough thermal mass to be effective, but not so much that it’s difficult to control. No other product offers this combination of performance, ease of installation and cost-effectiveness. (Up to 40 BTU SF)
ESTIMATING THE REQUIRED NUMBER OF THERMALBOARDS:
The following calculations can be used for estimating the required number of boards. For experienced installers:
calculate the net square footage of each room and multiply sq ft by
the following factors: Straight – 0.133 Utility – 0.028 Combo End and Utility pieces
Example: For a 600 Sq. ft. room, multiplying 600 by 0.133 gives approximately
80 straight boards. Multiplying 600 by 0.028 gives 17 Utility pieces.
Multiplying 600 by 0.028 gives 17 Combo end pieces. It is always recommended
that additional 10% material excess is added to the estimation.
Non-structural Thermalboard™ is designed specifically for subfloor applications. Thermalboard™ is constructed of a dense composite board covered with aluminum that spreads the heat evenly and quickly from the hydronic tubing. It heats rapidly and is easy to control with setback thermostats for maximum energy efficiency. It contains just enough thermal mass to be effective, but not so much that it’s difficult to control. No other product offers this combination of performance, ease of installation and cost-effectiveness. (Up to 40 BTU SF)
ESTIMATING THE REQUIRED NUMBER OF THERMALBOARDS:
The following calculations can be used for estimating the required number of boards. For experienced installers:
calculate the net square footage of each room and multiply sq ft by
the following factors: Straight – 0.133 Utility – 0.028 Combo End and Utility pieces
Example: For a 600 Sq. ft. room, multiplying 600 by 0.133 gives approximately
80 straight boards. Multiplying 600 by 0.028 gives 17 Utility pieces.
Multiplying 600 by 0.028 gives 17 Combo end pieces. It is always recommended
that additional 10% material excess is added to the estimation.
Wednesday, August 4, 2010
Radiant Heat Install Options
Radiant Floor Heating Installation Options using PEX Tubing
PEX Radiant Concrete Floors (Slab on Grade)
For concrete floors (slab on grade), the Radiant PEX tubing is attached to the reinforcing mesh with cable ties before the slab is poured. This type of PEX Radiant Floor Heat has a large mass.
With this type of radiant underfloor heat the space can only changed by the radiant floor about 1/2 a degree per hour. Typically the water temperature used in pex water line for this type of radiant floor is between 90° and 115° Fahrenheit. It is imperative that the surface temperature of any PEX Radiant floor stays below 85° or it becomes uncomfortable and unsafe.
Radiant Concrete Floors (Slab on Grade)
PEX in thin slab over wood framing
Simpler in new construction but you can install this type of radiant floor as a retrofit, the radiant PEX Pipe is installed over framed floors and covered with concrete or lightweight concrete. We like this type of pex radiant floor heating the best. Very easy to install and it provides a very even heat. Thin slab PEX radiant floors have a much quicker response time. With this type of radiant floor the space it is heating can be changed by the radiant floor as fast as 2 a degree per hour. Thin slab radiant floors have many floor covering options. (tile, stained concrete, wood using sleepers, carpet, etc.). Typically the water temperature used in this type of radiant floor - the pex water lines are between 90° and 125° Fahrenheit.
A quick note: When installing this type of pex radiant floor heat you need to have a tension break between the concrete and the wood substrate to allow the concrete and the wood floor to expand and shrink at there own rates. We recommend using 6 mil. sheet plastic.
PEX in thin slab over wood framing
PEX Under Floor Systems with Heat Transfer Plates
In a typical remodeling project, the PEX radiant tubing is snapped into radiant heat transfer plates which radiate heat to the floor above. The radiant heat plates tend to make the floor above them have warm and warmer spots. Still very comfortable. The installation of PEX under floors has its draw backs. PEX when heated expands 1.1 inch per. 10 feet with a 100° temperature rise. Typically the temperature for this type of installation is between 120° and 145° Fahrenheit. If not properly installed this PEX radiant floor can be quite noisy or if you get the wrong type of transfer plates for your pex underfloor heating system.
Under floor installation using
Radiant Heat Transfer Plates
PEX Radiant Tubing Under Floor
In a typical remodeling project, the PEX radiant tubing is hung with hangers below the floor about 1 inch. This allows the PEX radiant tubing to slide a little and sag a little as it expands making for a quiet floor. The hot water running through the PEX radiant tubing heats the air which intern heats the floor above. A insulation with a reflective surface mounted facing up leaving a 3 to 4 inch air space to the bottom of the floor is required. The PEX Radiant Heat from this floor system is very even. The air in this space must be stagnant, meaning all penetrations must be calked and the floor joists where they meet the band joist also. Typically the temperature for this type of PEX installation is between 120 deg. and 165 deg. Fahrenheit. We know of many houses using this method, new construction and existing. In Vermont where tubing was hung 16 inches on center and the water temperature is run from 125 degrees to 180 degrees out of the boiler or with a mixing valve. This has kept houses at a comfortable range with efficiency and no noise. In warmer climates you can run with a cooler temperature, but all this depends on your house's heat loss and other factors.
PEX Radiant Concrete Floors (Slab on Grade)
For concrete floors (slab on grade), the Radiant PEX tubing is attached to the reinforcing mesh with cable ties before the slab is poured. This type of PEX Radiant Floor Heat has a large mass.
With this type of radiant underfloor heat the space can only changed by the radiant floor about 1/2 a degree per hour. Typically the water temperature used in pex water line for this type of radiant floor is between 90° and 115° Fahrenheit. It is imperative that the surface temperature of any PEX Radiant floor stays below 85° or it becomes uncomfortable and unsafe.
Radiant Concrete Floors (Slab on Grade)
PEX in thin slab over wood framing
Simpler in new construction but you can install this type of radiant floor as a retrofit, the radiant PEX Pipe is installed over framed floors and covered with concrete or lightweight concrete. We like this type of pex radiant floor heating the best. Very easy to install and it provides a very even heat. Thin slab PEX radiant floors have a much quicker response time. With this type of radiant floor the space it is heating can be changed by the radiant floor as fast as 2 a degree per hour. Thin slab radiant floors have many floor covering options. (tile, stained concrete, wood using sleepers, carpet, etc.). Typically the water temperature used in this type of radiant floor - the pex water lines are between 90° and 125° Fahrenheit.
A quick note: When installing this type of pex radiant floor heat you need to have a tension break between the concrete and the wood substrate to allow the concrete and the wood floor to expand and shrink at there own rates. We recommend using 6 mil. sheet plastic.
PEX in thin slab over wood framing
PEX Under Floor Systems with Heat Transfer Plates
In a typical remodeling project, the PEX radiant tubing is snapped into radiant heat transfer plates which radiate heat to the floor above. The radiant heat plates tend to make the floor above them have warm and warmer spots. Still very comfortable. The installation of PEX under floors has its draw backs. PEX when heated expands 1.1 inch per. 10 feet with a 100° temperature rise. Typically the temperature for this type of installation is between 120° and 145° Fahrenheit. If not properly installed this PEX radiant floor can be quite noisy or if you get the wrong type of transfer plates for your pex underfloor heating system.
Under floor installation using
Radiant Heat Transfer Plates
PEX Radiant Tubing Under Floor
In a typical remodeling project, the PEX radiant tubing is hung with hangers below the floor about 1 inch. This allows the PEX radiant tubing to slide a little and sag a little as it expands making for a quiet floor. The hot water running through the PEX radiant tubing heats the air which intern heats the floor above. A insulation with a reflective surface mounted facing up leaving a 3 to 4 inch air space to the bottom of the floor is required. The PEX Radiant Heat from this floor system is very even. The air in this space must be stagnant, meaning all penetrations must be calked and the floor joists where they meet the band joist also. Typically the temperature for this type of PEX installation is between 120 deg. and 165 deg. Fahrenheit. We know of many houses using this method, new construction and existing. In Vermont where tubing was hung 16 inches on center and the water temperature is run from 125 degrees to 180 degrees out of the boiler or with a mixing valve. This has kept houses at a comfortable range with efficiency and no noise. In warmer climates you can run with a cooler temperature, but all this depends on your house's heat loss and other factors.
Monday, August 2, 2010
Rinnai Space Heaters
Rinnai Gas Direct-Vent Space Heaters are freestanding energy efficient heaters with the ability to modulate both its burner and blower to provide maximum efficiency and comfort. The Rinnai Heater incorporates an electronically driven 7-stage gas control system to maintain an even and continuous heat output to give you stable room temperature with unparalleled efficiency in both gas and electrical consumption. The Rinnai Direct-Vent Heaters are attractive, quiet, and compact and have a cool-to-the-touch cabinet. Rinnai Heaters extended life stainless steel heat exchanger transfers 84% of consumed gas energy to useful heat.
How many BTU’s?
We can make a rough approximation of the heat loss by using the square foot rule of thumb; about 35 BTU’s per Sq FT here in VT for a home with 2 x 4 construction, aluminum storms, R-13 in the walls and R-25 in the ceiling.
New construction would be between 20 and 25 BTU’s per sq ft.
Rinnai Gas Direct-Vent Space Heaters are freestanding energy efficient heaters with the ability to modulate both its burner and blower to provide maximum efficiency and comfort. The Rinnai Heater incorporates an electronically driven 7-stage gas control system to maintain an even and continuous heat output to give you stable room temperature with unparalleled efficiency in both gas and electrical consumption. The Rinnai Direct-Vent Heaters are attractive, quiet, and compact and have a cool-to-the-touch cabinet. Rinnai Heaters extended life stainless steel heat exchanger transfers 84% of consumed gas energy to useful heat.
How many BTU’s?
We can make a rough approximation of the heat loss by using the square foot rule of thumb; about 35 BTU’s per Sq FT here in VT for a home with 2 x 4 construction, aluminum storms, R-13 in the walls and R-25 in the ceiling.
New construction would be between 20 and 25 BTU’s per sq ft.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)