Click the above link for a diagram.
In this configuration the storage tank employs a double heat exchanger, providing solar heat for the Radiant System, as well as solar Domestic Hot Water.
NOTE: This is only an example. Actual layouts vary from job to job.
The Solar Loop operates normally with a Differential Controller to heat the Twin Coil Tank through the bottom heat exchange coil.
The space heating pump runs when the Room Thermostat calls for heat.
This loop flows through the top coil in the tank. If the upper tank is below, say, 130ºF boiler controller redirects the flow through the boiler, activating the boiler at the same time. This preserves hot water in the tank for domestic use.
The bypass, incorporating a Mixing Valve and check valve, ensures that the floor system cannot overheat by mechanically recirculating it when a set temperature is reached.
Normally the set temperature of the immersion heater (just below the top coil in the tank) is set far enough below the boiler set temperature to ensure that the radiant system only takes the solar heat from the tank. In emergencies the immersion heater could be used to supplement the floor heat by raising the immersion heater set point.
Friday, March 26, 2010
How To Solder Copper Pipes
Click the above link for the diagram.
Caution: Please read and understand all safety information before attempting maintenance or repairs. Wear eye protection and gloves when soldering pipes and when working with flux. Flux is a toxic substance. Some equipment may rely on a cold water supply. Take appropriate steps to shut down any equipment that may be adversely affected by shutting off the water supply. Such equipment includes, but is not limited to, a boiler or other heating system.
Note: Because you are working with a flame, often in a confined space, be aware of flammable materials near where you are working. In some cases, you may need to set up a non-flammable heat shield between the solder joint and flammable material nearby. Check with your local authority for applicable codes about the work you wish to perform and the necessity of permits before you begin your project.
When copper pipes are fitted together, there is a very small gap between the two pieces. When the pipes are heated, and solder is touched to the pipes, the solder melts and is drawn up into the gap through capillary action. Once the gap is filled, and the heat removed, the solder forms a seal and makes a watertight joint. Soldering pipes is easy once you get the hang of it. The key is to recognize that you are heating the pipes, not the solder. The heated copper melts the solder. Follow the steps in this guide and you should be able to make watertight joints. It is recommended that you practice a few times on some spare parts until you feel confident.
Remove all burrs from the inside and outside edges of the pipe with a deburring tool. Small burrs can result in a variety of problems in the lifespan of the water supply system.
Clean the outside of the copper pipe to a brilliant shine with a copper pipe cleaning brush, or simply use steel wool or emery cloth. If the copper is not clean, the solder may not bond properly and the joint may leak.
Clean the inside of the female fitting in the same way as in step 1.
Apply acid-free flux to both the outside of the male fitting and the inside of the female fitting. Flux further cleans the copper plus helps to prevent oxidation as the pipe heats up. If the pipe becomes oxidized, the joint may leak.
Join the two pieces securely together.
Unroll about four inches of solder and straighten it. You will use the roll or container as a handle when applying the solder.
Light the torch and apply the flame to the joint. Move the flame around to ensure that you heat the pipe on the opposite side from you.
When the flux begins to bubble and spit, touch the tip of the solder to the joint. The solder should melt immediately and disappear into the joint. Remove the heat. Work quickly because the pipe's temperature will drop quickly. Move the tip of the solder around the entire joint to ensure that solder fills in all the way around. If the joint stopped taking up solder because the solder was not melting, then quickly add more heat so that more solder can be applied.
Once the joint will take no more solder it will build up outside of the joint and begin to drip. Care should be taken at this point. Disrupting a joint as it cools can result in a dry joint also known as a leak. Once the joint has hardened, it can be wiped. This is the part where experience/practice helps. Some people use a dry rag, so the joint can be cleaned, but not cooled to the point, where it creates a dry/leaky joint.
Notes:
Always check for leaks after the pipe has cooled.
If you overheat the copper, it will oxidize and that prevents the solder from bonding.
If the joint leaks, you must open the joint, remove all the solder and start over by cleaning the metal and applying flux. It may be easier to start over with new fittings.
Always use lead-free solder.
Make sure the pipes are completely dry or it will interfere with the bonding of the solder.
If you cannot completely stop the flow of water from the pipe you are working on, it may be impossible to heat the pipe hot enough. Take a wad of white bread (without the crust) and stuff it into the pipe. This will hold the water back for a minute or two. After that the bread will dissolve harmlessly in the pipe and is easily flushed out.
Specialty parts may have requirements to disassemble seals or other components. Please read all instructions from each manufacturer.
When sweating ball valves, it is best to point the flame away from the piece, sweating the ball valve as quick as possible.
If you use MAPP gas instead of propane, it burns much hotter and will heat the copper very quickly compared to propane. If you are used to propane, practice with MAPP before beginning work.
Caution: Please read and understand all safety information before attempting maintenance or repairs. Wear eye protection and gloves when soldering pipes and when working with flux. Flux is a toxic substance. Some equipment may rely on a cold water supply. Take appropriate steps to shut down any equipment that may be adversely affected by shutting off the water supply. Such equipment includes, but is not limited to, a boiler or other heating system.
Note: Because you are working with a flame, often in a confined space, be aware of flammable materials near where you are working. In some cases, you may need to set up a non-flammable heat shield between the solder joint and flammable material nearby. Check with your local authority for applicable codes about the work you wish to perform and the necessity of permits before you begin your project.
When copper pipes are fitted together, there is a very small gap between the two pieces. When the pipes are heated, and solder is touched to the pipes, the solder melts and is drawn up into the gap through capillary action. Once the gap is filled, and the heat removed, the solder forms a seal and makes a watertight joint. Soldering pipes is easy once you get the hang of it. The key is to recognize that you are heating the pipes, not the solder. The heated copper melts the solder. Follow the steps in this guide and you should be able to make watertight joints. It is recommended that you practice a few times on some spare parts until you feel confident.
Remove all burrs from the inside and outside edges of the pipe with a deburring tool. Small burrs can result in a variety of problems in the lifespan of the water supply system.
Clean the outside of the copper pipe to a brilliant shine with a copper pipe cleaning brush, or simply use steel wool or emery cloth. If the copper is not clean, the solder may not bond properly and the joint may leak.
Clean the inside of the female fitting in the same way as in step 1.
Apply acid-free flux to both the outside of the male fitting and the inside of the female fitting. Flux further cleans the copper plus helps to prevent oxidation as the pipe heats up. If the pipe becomes oxidized, the joint may leak.
Join the two pieces securely together.
Unroll about four inches of solder and straighten it. You will use the roll or container as a handle when applying the solder.
Light the torch and apply the flame to the joint. Move the flame around to ensure that you heat the pipe on the opposite side from you.
When the flux begins to bubble and spit, touch the tip of the solder to the joint. The solder should melt immediately and disappear into the joint. Remove the heat. Work quickly because the pipe's temperature will drop quickly. Move the tip of the solder around the entire joint to ensure that solder fills in all the way around. If the joint stopped taking up solder because the solder was not melting, then quickly add more heat so that more solder can be applied.
Once the joint will take no more solder it will build up outside of the joint and begin to drip. Care should be taken at this point. Disrupting a joint as it cools can result in a dry joint also known as a leak. Once the joint has hardened, it can be wiped. This is the part where experience/practice helps. Some people use a dry rag, so the joint can be cleaned, but not cooled to the point, where it creates a dry/leaky joint.
Notes:
Always check for leaks after the pipe has cooled.
If you overheat the copper, it will oxidize and that prevents the solder from bonding.
If the joint leaks, you must open the joint, remove all the solder and start over by cleaning the metal and applying flux. It may be easier to start over with new fittings.
Always use lead-free solder.
Make sure the pipes are completely dry or it will interfere with the bonding of the solder.
If you cannot completely stop the flow of water from the pipe you are working on, it may be impossible to heat the pipe hot enough. Take a wad of white bread (without the crust) and stuff it into the pipe. This will hold the water back for a minute or two. After that the bread will dissolve harmlessly in the pipe and is easily flushed out.
Specialty parts may have requirements to disassemble seals or other components. Please read all instructions from each manufacturer.
When sweating ball valves, it is best to point the flame away from the piece, sweating the ball valve as quick as possible.
If you use MAPP gas instead of propane, it burns much hotter and will heat the copper very quickly compared to propane. If you are used to propane, practice with MAPP before beginning work.
We do not Recommend open-loop heating systems
Why?
The low temperatures of a radiant floor system can become a breeding ground for potentially fatal bacteria. This opinion is based upon our experience along with national, state and university studies and warnings.
Contracting potentially fatal, pneumonia-like Legionnaires' disease from hot water that isn't hot enough (Legionella is a water-borne bacterium and is the cause of Legionnaires disease).
Indeed, the federal Centers for Disease Control website ( www.cdc.gov) says that 8,000 to 18,000 people contract Legionnaires' disease each year, with the illness fatal in 5%-30% of the cases. The study recaps data documenting the presence of Legionella bacteria in residential water systems because of water heaters being set above 95°F and below 140°F is a perfect habitat for growth. Because the bacterium enjoys warm water environments, it's a potential problem in hot water distribution systems.
When your domestic hot water tank exceeds temperatures above 120°F, it is important to put in an anti scalding mixing valve to prevent scalding injuries.
We would be happy to help you with a closed system using a heat exchanger or primary/secondary loops.
The low temperatures of a radiant floor system can become a breeding ground for potentially fatal bacteria. This opinion is based upon our experience along with national, state and university studies and warnings.
Contracting potentially fatal, pneumonia-like Legionnaires' disease from hot water that isn't hot enough (Legionella is a water-borne bacterium and is the cause of Legionnaires disease).
Indeed, the federal Centers for Disease Control website ( www.cdc.gov) says that 8,000 to 18,000 people contract Legionnaires' disease each year, with the illness fatal in 5%-30% of the cases. The study recaps data documenting the presence of Legionella bacteria in residential water systems because of water heaters being set above 95°F and below 140°F is a perfect habitat for growth. Because the bacterium enjoys warm water environments, it's a potential problem in hot water distribution systems.
When your domestic hot water tank exceeds temperatures above 120°F, it is important to put in an anti scalding mixing valve to prevent scalding injuries.
We would be happy to help you with a closed system using a heat exchanger or primary/secondary loops.
Traditional Tank Water Heater as a Heat Source
Click link above for diagram.
The example below shows a setup using a tank-type hot water heater as a closed loop heat source. It is recommended that this type of system be used for small heat loads only.
This is only an example. Actual layouts vary from job to job.
The example below shows a setup using a tank-type hot water heater as a closed loop heat source. It is recommended that this type of system be used for small heat loads only.
This is only an example. Actual layouts vary from job to job.
Traditional Tank Water Heater as a Heat Source
Click link above to view diagram.
The example below shows a setup using a tank-type hot water heater as a closed loop heat source. A mixing valve is added for adjusting the temperature for a concrete or wood floor. It is recommended that this type of system be used for small heat loads only.
This is only an example. Actual layouts vary from job to job.
The example below shows a setup using a tank-type hot water heater as a closed loop heat source. A mixing valve is added for adjusting the temperature for a concrete or wood floor. It is recommended that this type of system be used for small heat loads only.
This is only an example. Actual layouts vary from job to job.
How to Fill and Purge your Hydronic Heating System
Click on the link above to view the diagram.
A properly plumbed hydronic heating system makes it easy to add water and remove air, during the initial fill / purge and in later servicing.
We remove all of the air to make the hydronic heating system work mechanically correct. Small amounts of air can cause gurgling noises and large amounts of air can cavitate the circulators pumps causing the heating loop to stop flowing, resulting in a lack of heat.
When filling or purging a hydronic heating system, it is easiest when the system is broken down into smaller sections or loops. Each loop / zone is connected to the hydronic boiler fill valve and has the ability to be isolated from the other loops. Ball valves and drains isolate the system.
Water is introduced into the hydronic system in one way, flowing down the piping and out the boiler drain, carrying the air with it.
The process of isolating and filling is repeated until the hydronic system is full of water and the air removed.
Flushing the hydronic system works in reverse, replacing the old water with new. Flushing the hydronic system is important. The hydronic heating system should be flushed to remove and flux or solder that may be mixed in the water.
A properly plumbed hydronic heating system makes it easy to add water and remove air, during the initial fill / purge and in later servicing.
We remove all of the air to make the hydronic heating system work mechanically correct. Small amounts of air can cause gurgling noises and large amounts of air can cavitate the circulators pumps causing the heating loop to stop flowing, resulting in a lack of heat.
When filling or purging a hydronic heating system, it is easiest when the system is broken down into smaller sections or loops. Each loop / zone is connected to the hydronic boiler fill valve and has the ability to be isolated from the other loops. Ball valves and drains isolate the system.
Water is introduced into the hydronic system in one way, flowing down the piping and out the boiler drain, carrying the air with it.
The process of isolating and filling is repeated until the hydronic system is full of water and the air removed.
Flushing the hydronic system works in reverse, replacing the old water with new. Flushing the hydronic system is important. The hydronic heating system should be flushed to remove and flux or solder that may be mixed in the water.
Boiler Primary Loops and Boiler Secondary Loops
Click on the link above for examples of Primary Loop Piping:
Primary/Secondary Loop Piping is commonly used in heating systems with multiple temperature zones.
This also works well with condensing boilers allowing proper flow through the boiler for the highest rate of heat delivery.
Primary/Secondary Loop Piping is commonly used in heating systems with multiple temperature zones.
This also works well with condensing boilers allowing proper flow through the boiler for the highest rate of heat delivery.
Hot Water Boiler with Primary Secondary Hydronic Heating with 5 Zones (High and Low Temperature) and Indirect Domestic Hot Water Tank
Click on the link above for the diagram.
This is an example of how to use a Gas Boiler to produce different water temperatures for 5 zones (High / Low Temperatures) plus a zone for the Indirect Hot Water Tank.
You will notice that in this example there are 3 possible temperatures for the heating zones. There are 3 zones for high temperature that can feed radiators or baseboard convectors at whatever the boiler water temperatures is set to. There are 2 zones for a set temperature that could be used for pex radiant heat zones at different water temperatures.
This is only an example. Actual layouts vary from job to job.
This is an example of how to use a Gas Boiler to produce different water temperatures for 5 zones (High / Low Temperatures) plus a zone for the Indirect Hot Water Tank.
You will notice that in this example there are 3 possible temperatures for the heating zones. There are 3 zones for high temperature that can feed radiators or baseboard convectors at whatever the boiler water temperatures is set to. There are 2 zones for a set temperature that could be used for pex radiant heat zones at different water temperatures.
This is only an example. Actual layouts vary from job to job.
Hot Water Boiler with Primary / Secondary Hydronic Heating Loops with 3 Temperature Heating Zone
Click on the link above for the diagram.
This is an example of how to get different temperatures from a set temperature heat source. This is an example of how to use a Gas Boiler to produce different water temperatures for 4 zones (High / Low Temperatures)..
You will notice that in this example there are 3 possible water temperatures for the heating zones. There is 1 zone for high temperature that can feed radiators or baseboard convectors at whatever the boiler temperatures is set to. There are 2 zones for a set temperature that could be used for pex radiant heat zones at 2 different water temperatures.
This is only an example. Actual layouts vary from job to job.
This is an example of how to get different temperatures from a set temperature heat source. This is an example of how to use a Gas Boiler to produce different water temperatures for 4 zones (High / Low Temperatures)..
You will notice that in this example there are 3 possible water temperatures for the heating zones. There is 1 zone for high temperature that can feed radiators or baseboard convectors at whatever the boiler temperatures is set to. There are 2 zones for a set temperature that could be used for pex radiant heat zones at 2 different water temperatures.
This is only an example. Actual layouts vary from job to job.
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