Thursday, May 22, 2014

How To Solder Copper Pipes

Caution: Please read and understand all safety information before attempting maintenance or repairs. Wear eye protection and gloves when soldering pipes and when working with flux. Flux is a toxic substance. Some equipment may rely on a cold water supply. Take appropriate steps to shut down any equipment that may be adversely affected by shutting off the water supply. Such equipment includes, but is not limited to, a boiler or other heating system.

Note: Because you are working with a flame, often in a confined space, be aware of flammable materials near where you are working. In some cases, you may need to set up a non-flammable heat shield between the solder joint and flammable material nearby. Check with your local authority for applicable codes about the work you wish to perform and the necessity of permits before you begin your project.

When copper pipes are fitted together, there is a very small gap between the two pieces. When the pipes are heated, and solder is touched to the pipes, the solder melts and is drawn up into the gap through capillary action. Once the gap is filled, and the heat removed, the solder forms a seal and makes a watertight joint. Soldering pipes is easy once you get the hang of it. The key is to recognize that you are heating the pipes, not the solder. The heated copper melts the solder. Follow the steps in this guide and you should be able to make watertight joints. It is recommended that you practice a few times on some spare parts until you feel confident.


Step 1
Step 1 - Remove all burrs from the inside and outside edges of the pipe with a de-burring brush.  Small burrs can result in a variety of problems in the lifespan of the water supply system.
Step 2 - Clean the outside of the pipe. If the copper is not clean, the solder may not bond properly  Clean the outside of the copper pipe to a brilliant shine with a copper pipe cleaning brush, or simply use steel wool or emery cloth. If the copper is not clean, the solder may not bond properly and the joint may leak.
Step 3 -Clean the inside of the female fitting
Step 4 -Clean the inside of the female fitting in the same way as in step
Step 2
Step 5 - Apply acid-free flux to both the outside of the male fitting and the inside of the female fittin
Step 6 - Apply acid-free flux to both the outside of the male fitting and the inside of the female fitting. Flux further cleans the copper plus helps to prevent oxidation as the pipe heats up. If the pipe becomes oxidized, the joint may leak.
Step 7 - Join the two pieces securely together Join the two pieces securely together. Unroll about four inches of solder and straighten it. You will use the roll or container as a handle when applying the solder. Light the torch and apply the flame to the joint. Move the flame around to ensure that you heat the pipe on the opposite side from you.


Step 3 Clean the inside of fitting in the same way as in Step 1
 
 

Step 8 - When the flux begins to bubble and spit, touch the tip of the solder to the joint Once the joint will take no more solder it will build up outside of the joint and begin to drip. Care should be taken at this point. Disrupting a joint as it cools can result in a dry joint also known as a leak. Once the joint has hardened, it can be wiped. This is the part where experience/practice helps. Some people use a dry rag, so the joint can be cleaned, but not cooled to the point, where it creates a dry/leaky.

Join the two pieces securely together
Step 5




Step 4



When the flux begins to bubble and spit, touch the tip of the solder to the joint
Step 6









NOTES:
1)  Always check for leaks after the pipe has cooled.
2)  If you overheat the copper, it will oxidize and that prevents the solder from bonding.
3)  If the joint leaks, you must open the joint, remove all the solder and start over by cleaning the metal and applying flux. It may be easier to start over with new fittings.
4)  Always use lead-free solder.
5)  Make sure the pipes are completely dry or it will interfere with the bonding of the solder.
6)  If you cannot completely stop the flow of water from the pipe you are working on, it may be impossible to heat the pipe hot enough. Take a wad of white bread (without the crust) and stuff it into the pipe. This will hold the water back for a minute or two. After that the bread will dissolve harmlessly in the pipe and is easily flushed out.
7)  Specialty parts may have requirements to disassemble seals or other components. Please read all instructions from each manufacturer.
8)  When sweating ball valves, it is best to point the flame away from the piece, sweating the ball valve as quick as possible.
If you use MAPP gas instead of propane, it burns much hotter and will heat the copper very quickly compared to propane. If you are used to propane, practice with MAPP before beginning work.

Please visit www.houseneeds.com for fittings
 



 




Tuesday, May 20, 2014

Tamarack Technologies Whole House Fan

Currently on sale while supplies last
 
By pulling heat out of your home with the Tamarack TTi-HV1600 Whole House Fan, cooler outside air is drawn into the home. The heated air is then pushed out of your home through the attic vents. With a Tamarack Attic Fan - not only will you be more comfortable - but you will save money on your air conditioning bills.
·  Easy Installation                                     
·  Energy Efficient
· Automatic                              
·  Quiet
·  Economical
·  Draft Proof
·  No Maintenance
·  UL/CUL Listed
·  Three Year Warranty
·  Made in the USA 
Comes with automatic insulated motorized doors. Standard R Value is R 38 for models TTi-HV1600. The doors form an air tight seal between your ceiling and your attic. No BIG un-insulated hole in your ceiling like other traditional whole house fans!

HV Whole House Sizing Chart
Standard 1 or 2 Story Home with summertime temperatures no warmer than 85 degrees F. summertime peak.
Up to 2,500 square feet  use 1  - TTi-HV1600 
2,500 to 3,000 square feet  use 1 - TTi-HV1600  3,000 to
4,000 square feet  use 2 -  TTi-HV1600 or 2 - TTi-HV1600 
4,000 to 5,000 square feet  use 3 - TTi-HV1600 or 2 -  TTi-HV1600   
 
Standard 1 or 2 Story Home with summertime temperatures no warmer than 95 degrees F. summertime peak.
Up to 1,500 square feet  use  1 -  TTi-HV1600 
1,500 to 2,500 square feet  use  1 - TTi-HV1600 
2,500 to 4,000 square feet  use  2 TTi-HV1600 or use 2 -  TTi-HV1600 
4,000 to 5,000 square feet  use  3  TTi-HV1600
 
Please call us at 866-432-8123 or 802-583-2726 if you have any questions or if you would to place an order or visit our website at www.houseneeds.com.
 




Thursday, May 8, 2014

Takagi Tankless Water Heater Outdoor Units

 The flow rate and capacity of tankless water heaters depends on the temperature difference between the desired output and the incoming water temperatures. The condensing units are more energy efficient.

The Takagi T-KJr2-OS heater is the smallest gas water heater in the Takagi tankless line and is the same as the T-KJr-IN, but for outdoor installation only (Moderate temperature climates). The T-KJr-OS has gas inputs up to 140,000 BTU per hour - can meet all the hot-water needs of a small American home or apartment with one or two bathrooms. The T-K Jr2 OS has an energy factor of 81% to 83%. At an average (rise in temperature) of 60 Degrees F in warmer areas where the winter ground water is 60 Degrees F and with the output set at 120 Degrees F the unit will provide 3.8 GPM, or 228 GPH. The All new T-KJr2-OS has a max GPM of 6.6GPM.

The Takagi T-K4-OS is a mid-sized gas water heater in the Takagi tankless line and is the same as the T-K4-IN, but for outdoor installation only (Moderate temperature climates). The T-K4-OS has gas inputs up to 190,000 BTU per hour - can meet all the hot-water needs of your home, business or condo with one or two bathrooms. The T-K 4 OS has an energy factor of 81% to 83%. At an average (rise in temperature) of 60°F in warmer areas - where the winter ground water is 60°F and with the output set at 120°F - the unit will provide 5.2 GPM. The All new T-K4-OS has a max GPM of 8.0 gmp.

The Takagi T-D2-OS model was specifically designed for light commercial applications in outdoor locations. The Takagi Tankless Water Heater T-D2-OS offers a max flow rate of 10.0 GPM. The four preset temperatures on the unit are: 104°F, 113°F, 122°F, 131°F, 140°F, 158°F, 176°F and 185°F. To achieve any temperatures other than those presets, you will require the TK-RE30 temperature controller, which is included with the T-D2-OS.

The Takagi T-H3-OS is a high efficient, condensing tankless water heater perfect for residential and light commercial applications. With gas inputs of 199,000 BTU, the T-H3-OS-P can produce enough hot water for four bathrooms in warmer climates or three baths in colder climates. Primary heat exchanger utilizes HRS35 commercial-grade copper alloy for 25 times better heat transfer than stainless steel. Secondary heat exchanger utilizes 316L stainless steel for better corrosion resistance.  Outdoor model includes remote control as standard feature

The Takagi T-H3S-OS is a high efficient, condensing, tankless water heater perfect for residential applications. With gas inputs of 180,000 BTU, the T-H3S-OS can produce enough hot water for three bathrooms in warmer climates or two baths in colder climates.  Primary heat exchanger utilizes HRS35 commercial-grade copper alloy for 25 times better heat transfer than stainless steel. Secondary heat exchanger utilizes 316L stainless steel for better corrosion resistance.  Outdoor model includes remote control as standard feature

The Takagi T-H3J  is a high efficient, condensing tankless water heater perfect for residential applications. With gas inputs of 160,000 BTU, the T-H3J can produce enough hot water for two bathrooms in warmer climates or 1.5 baths in colder climates.

To compare products click here.

Please note Takagi Outdoor units are to be installed in mild climates only or for summer use only in colder climates.

Please call us if you have any further questions at 866-432-8123 or 802-583-2726.