Electro Industries Electric Plenum Duct Heaters

Since 1980, the Electro-Mate™ remains the leading product certified and approved for direct furnace plenum installation. At 40% to 60% the cost of a new gas furnace, any gas or oil furnace can very easily be converted to electric heating. As a dual heat conversion, the existing furnace remains the backup
or standby unit, also providing opportunity for easily switching between fuels.
 
The patented Electro-Mate® zero-clearance electric conversion system converts your existing natural gas, LP, or oil furnace into a “Dual-fuel” (electric/gas-oil) system.  Having this ability to use lower cost electric rates and by using the most cost effective heating source available can save you hundreds of dollars off of your heating bills each year.  To understand the true cost of energy for your heating system view the electric vs. gas/oil chart.  With electric’s 100% efficiency you will be able to get an idea of the cost savings available by using electric’s off-peak rates.
 
 All of the Electro-Mates come in up flow and down flow configurations, they simply insert into the plenum above or below your existing furnace.  All thermostat control wiring is simplified and handled within the Electro-Mate.  The Electro-Mate uses the existing blower to distribute the air throughout the home thus saving the need for new air handling equipment.

WarmFlo Select SL1 Series

This unit can be used in conjunction with a single stage heat pump, with one or two-stage air conditioning, or without air conditioning. This unit is compatible with single or multi-stage gas or oil furnaces with or without variable speed blowers. This unit includes automatic dual fuel control, with manual override switch. A conventional 4-wire thermostat must be used when installing with a heat pump.

WarmFlow Select SL2 Series

This unit is specifi cally designed to be used in conjunction with 2-stage heat pump systems. This unit is compatible with single or multi-stage gas or oil furnaces, with or without variable speed blowers. This unit includes dual fuel control, with manual override switch. This unit uses a conventional 4-wire thermostat and can be confi gured to be used in 1H/1C or 2H/ 2C mode. This unit will not work with a heat pump thermostat. This unit does not apply to 1 or 2-stage air conditioning, use WarmFlo Select SL1 Series.

* No chip code selection required
* Application selection dial – HP or non-HP
* All-inclusive controls, can be used with either heat pump or air conditioning
* Modulates electric elements to maintain precise output temperature
* Quiet operation with DC relays
* Energy control selector
* Simple 4-wire conventional thermostat wiring used for both heat pump and air conditioning systems
PDF Manual                   PDF Brochure                 PDF Specs / Techs

 

EZ-Mate Series

This unit can be used in conjunction with a single stage heat pump, with one or two-stage air conditioning, or without air conditioning. This unit is compatible with single or multi-stage gas or oil furnaces with or without variable speed blowers. This unit includes automatic dual fuel control, with manual override switch. A conventional 4-wire thermostat must be used when installing with a heat pump.

* Modulates electric elements

* Plenum and outdoor temperature sensing

* Automatic switchover

* Warm air comfort

* Heating capacity determined by outdoor temperature

* Setup dial selections - HP or non-HP

* No 2nd I/F “box” required

* No chip code selection required

* Designed for both single and variable speed blowers

* Mini Demand Control or Load Shed

PDF Manual                   PDF Specs / Techs            PDF Warranty

 

HeatChoice II Series

This unit is compatible to be used with single or multi-stage gas or oil furnaces, with or without variable speed blowers. This unit can be installed with or without air conditioning. The air conditioning can be either single stage or two stage. This unit includes dual fuel control, with manual override switch. This unit cannot be used with heat pumps.

* Energy control selector (dual fuel)

* Stat override timer (SOT) 90/180 minutes or disable

* All inclusive control

* Variable speed blower connection

* Automatic switch to backup during load control
PDF Brochure
 

For additional information click here

To see an Energy Comparison Chart click here
 
 
 
  

Retrofitting with In Floor Radiant Heat & UnderFloor PEX Radiant Heating System

1. What do I need for an Existing Structure?
    To properly size most components related to your underfloor heating system we highly recommend a heat loss calculation for your project if this is your primary heat source. This is even more important with an existing house install. Why? Heat loss is a critical step, as we can estimate the average output of a radiant floor at 25 BTU’s per square foot but windows, doors, insulation, and degree days all make a major impact on getting you just what you need.
     The most common sizing mistake with in floor heat is in oversizing. This not only makes the new radiant heating system cost more to install, but also forces it to operate inefficiently, break down more often, and cost more to operate. Oversized heating equipment also often creates uncomfortable and large temperature swings in the house plus it will short cycle the hot water boiler and run outside the design parameters costing you more money.
     We are not in the business of selling equipment that you don’t need and a little work up front can save you thousands of dollars in costs over the life of your system.
2. How do I calculate my heat loss?
Heat losses can vary in houses of different ages and locations. For example, here in Vermont - a new house may have a heat loss of 25 to 30 Btu per Square Foot, a house next door built in the 1970's may be 35 to 50 Btu per square foot and a house next to this one built prior to World War II - could be a high as 100 Btu per Square Foot. Get the Math? It's hard to tell what older structures Btu heat loss is without a heat loss of something else to that tells us what we need to know.
    Have your architect or builder supply it to you as in many states like NH or CA it is required.
    Calculate it yourself using software - go back to the Heat Lost Calucator under Pex Tubing Radiant Installs. Or use one of the two different rough guides below.
Insulation Type and Climate Zone
(Please Note: We highly recommend that you do a heat loss calculation and provide the information below as a starting place)
 1)  No insulation in walls, ceilings, or floors; no storm windows; windows and doors fit loosely .... 60 to 100 BTU's per Sq. Ft.
2)  R-11 insulation in walls and ceilings; no insulation in floors over crawl spaces; no storm windows; doors and windows fit fairly tight .... 50 to 60 BTU's per Sq. Ft.
3)  R-19 insulation in walls, R-30 in ceilings, and R-11 in floors; tight-fitting storm windows or double pane windows .... 29 to 35 BTU's per Sq. Ft.
4)  "Energy Star Rated" house with R-24+ wall insulation, R-40 in ceilings, and R-19 in floor; tight-fitting storm windows or double pane windows; vapor barrier sealed carefully during construction .... 20 to 25 BTU's per Sq. Ft.
5)  SIP or Earth-sheltered house with little exposure; argon filled windows, and R40+ insulated .... 10 to 15 BTU's per Sq. Feet.

Climate Zone

Heating Sq. Footage by Climate Zone for a pre-1970's House
Houston, TX ZONE 1 --> 15 - 25 Btu's per square foot
Los Angles, CA ZONE 2 --> 25 - 30 Btu's per square foot
St. Louis, MO ZONE 3 --> 30 - 40 Btu's per square foot
New York, NY ZONE 4 --> 40 - 50 Btu's per square foot
Minneapolis, MN ZONE 4 --> 50 - 60 Btu's per square foot

Outdoor Design Temperature

The Outdoor Design Temperature (ODT), also referred to as the 2.5% design day temperature, is not the coldest day ever, but rather a temperature that is achieved 97.5% of the time.
Examples:
ODT Chicago = - 8 Degree F
ODT Denver = 1 Degree F
ODT Minnesota = -12 Degree F
ODT Washington = 17Degree F
    Simply multiply the appropriate factor above by your home's total heated square footage to arrive at your approximate required heating capacity. For example, if you live in Zone 3, your home is well insulated, and you have 2000 heated square feet, the equation will look like this:
 2000 square feet of "Energy Star" grade new construction but with lots of windows =
 35 BTU's per sq ft. is 70,000 Btu Load
    Then, to calculate the output on a hot water boiler, multiply its efficiency rating by its listed input rating for the actual Btu output of heat. An example of a medium efficiency boiler. Of course, this is a very simple way to look at efficiency - but actually, it is more complicated. Factors such as, how long does it take to get to efficiency, condensing, direct vent or not, using pex and amound of water in the boiler all effect true efficiency.
    87,000 Btu input X .86 efficiency = 73,000 Btu actual output
3. Existing Heating System  - Click here to purchase Hydronic Heating Boilers    All hot water boilers sold in the U.S. must have a rating plate. Check the rating plate and get the:
1) For Example --> 92,000 Btu Input of your Hot Water Boiler X .80 efficiency of your Boiler = 73,000 Btu actual output
2) Count the total linear footage of baseboard in the home. Multiply this number by 600 BTU’s. This will give you the BTU output at 180 Degrees F. This number should be close to the Boilers actual output.
    There are a few ways to calculate heat loss. Use the above information to get a rough idea. We strongly recommend that you download a heat loss calculator. Why? Because windows and doors make a huge difference to the heat load of your home. Once you have an idea of your requirements, we will be able to get you a quote.
4. Ways to install Radiant PEX with an existing floor
   PEX Tubing Under the Floor - Typically under hardwood or tile flooring
   PEX In Floor - Typlically in poured cement
   PEX Over Floor - Typlically using ThermalBoard, VersaTherm or Creatherm  Radiant Heat Mass
5. In Floor Radiant Heat System Slab on Grade
    For residential slabs we recommend 1/2 Inch PEX tubing to be 12 Inch on center. Along walls with lots of glass or high heat loss the PEX should be 6 Inch to 9 Inch on center on the outside walls for the first 2 feet, and 12 Inch on center everywhere else. In Floor Radiant Heat System will give you the most output Btu, but also the slowest response time.
    When figuring the over all length of tubing you will need you divide any 6 Inch spacing area by .5, divide any 9 Inch spacing area by .75 and any 12" spacing area by 1. This will give you the over all length of the PEX needed in the slab. You will need to add the length of tubing needed to get up to the pex manifold.
    Typically pex manifolds are mounted 18 Inch to 24 Inch off the slab
6. Installing PEX Tubing - click here to purchase PEX Tubing
    Following good piping practices the maximum length of each 1/2 Inch PEX tubing runs should be no longer than 300 feet (300-foot maximum is code in many places). When the pipe loops exceed 300 feet you need to use larger circulators (pumps) to maintain this temperature drop. With larger circulators initial cost is higher and they usually require twice as much electricity to run. Most good radiant installers try to limit piping loops to below 300 feet.
    There are many correct ways of installing in floor heat PEX within a slab. The best way is tying the PEX to the reinforcing mesh or rebar. When attaching the PEX Tubing to wire reinforcing mesh or rebar it is recommend that a zip tie be used every 2 feet of PEX Tubing.
    Another way to install PEX in a slab is attaching the PEX Tubing to ridged insulation. The use of insulation screw clips or large plastic staples is common.
    We recommend an insulation screw clip or staple every 2 feet if installing the tubing over insulation only (no wire mesh). If you use 2 Inch polystyrene insulation it is recommended that you use a 6 mil. polyethylene moisture barrier.
    Installing the manifolds and keeping the lines under pressure (air or water pressure) for the concrete pour is highly recommended and required by code in many locations.
7. Insulation - Click here to purchase Insulation
    Insulation is always needed with any radiant heating system and especially needed under slabs. Why, if the soil has any moisture in it the moisture will wick away the heat at a tremendous rate making your system inefficient.
    Today many radiant slabs being installed with insulation only around the perimeter. Their belief is that you should store the heat in the ground for use later. One problem with this notion is that a large portion of the heat is absorbed into the ground and never warms your home. Why do you want to pay to heat the ground? Slab Insulation is important for the entire slab.
    We recommend Slab Shield Insulation which was designed specifically for under slab applications. Manufactured using two separate layers of 1/4 Inch polyethylene foam with a pure aluminum center. This product is available in 4 Feet x 63 Feet rolls for easy application. It is simply unrolled and taped together (this is necessary for a complete vapor barrier to be achieved). With Slab-Shield there's no time wasted installing 4 Feet x 8 Feet foam boards. With a puncture resistance of 92.9psi you can work and walk on top of it without it crumbling apart.
8. Here's a rough idea of what it will cost
    Below are some pricing guidelines. These numbers are higher than most proposals, but can act as a "stand-in" as you're creating your construction budget.
    Mid Efficiency (87%+) hot water boiler: $1,500 to $3,000
    High Efficiency (95%+) hot water boiler: $2,200 to $5,500
    Per zone controls: $250.00 ea. zone
    Slab on grade Radiant: $1.20 per square
    Wood Underfloor Radiant: $1.70 Per square
    Myson radiators: $260 per 5000 BTU
People consider radiant heating for its superior economic and comfort advantages. But with energy prices rising 35%+ this year, whichever efficient system you choose, you’ll appreciate the cost savings!
  
Please visit www.Houseneeds.com or if you have any questions call 866-432-8123

 

  
 
 

Cost Examples of Heating a Typical House

Energy costs rise year after year! Cost of a barrel of Oil is expected to rise by 30 to 40% this year. Actual cost for Propane, Natural Gas, Electricity and Pellets are all going up too! So - you get the picture.
What does this mean for you?
Less money in your pocket and more in, well, you know where.
What can you do about this?
Get a high efficient heat source now!

First, let's look at the heating costs for a house with a heat loss of 65,000 Btu for a recent full heating season with several different heat sources.
Cost of Propane $1.75 and Electricity of .12 per kilowatt.
(Actual Propane Usaged was 1,250 gallons.)

Heat Source	Gallons / Kilowatts	Annual Cost	Savings (Notes)
Electric Storage Tank	36,425 kilowatts	$4,038	You would spend more than $2,091 to heat your house with an electric tank than our most efficient boiler!
Gas Storage Tank - Gravity Vent	1,700 gallons	$2,975	You would spend more than $1,028 to heat your house with an gas tank than our highest efficient boiler!
Gas Storage Tank - Power Vent	1,525 gallons	$2,668	You would spend more than $725 to heat your house with an gas tank than our most efficient boiler! Also, Can cost about $50 per month - read below *
Cast Iron Boiler - Older Hi Mass	1,675 gallons	$2,931	You would spend more than $985 to heat your house with an older Cast Iron Boiler than our most efficient boiler!
Cast Iron Boiler - New Med Mass Gravity Vent	1,412 gallons	$2,471	You would spend more than $524 to heat your house with an new Cast Iron Gravity Vent Boiler than our most efficient boiler!
Low Mass Boiler - New Hi Efficiency Direct Vent	1,112 gallons	$1,946	The best way to heat any house with a btu Heat Loss of Greater than 30,000 to 40,000 btu. Will save the most money now and more money in the future as energy prices go up. Pay Now or Pay More Later!

Now let's take a look at some Heat Sources you have to choose from.

Heat Source	Burn Efficiency	Tank Loss (Daily)	Flue Loss (Daily)	Combustion Loss	Steady State	Effective Efficiency
Electric Storage Tank	99.50%	8 to 10%	N/A	N/A	N/A	90.5%
Gas Storage Tank - Gravity Vent	80%	8 to 10%	72% to 80%	15%	N/A	37% to 45%
Gas Storage Tank - Power Vent	80%	8 to 10%	0%	15%	N/A	55%
Hi Efficiency Gas Storage Tank - Power Vent	up to 95%	8 to 10%	0%	0%	N/A	86% *
Cast Iron Boiler - Older Hi Mass	75%	N/A	N/A	15%	20 to 24 min	40 to 47%
Cast Iron Boiler - New Med Mass Gravity Vent	84%	8 to 10%	0%	0%	5 to 6 min	64%
Cast Iron Boiler - New Direct Vent	84%	8 to 10%	0%	0%	5 to 6 min	77%
Low Mass Boiler - New Direct Vent	84%	N/A	0%	0%	1 to 2 min	83%
Low Mass Boiler - New Hi Efficiency Direct Vent	95%	N/A	0%	0%	1 to 2 min	94%

Burn Efficiency	This is the steady state efficiency of the burners - this assumes at least an 8 to 24 minute burn rate for Cast Iron Boilers and 2 to 3 minutes for Stainless Steel Cooper Low Mass Boilers.
Tank Loss	This is the actual per day heat loss from the tank into the space where the tank is located. (Note: If the tank heat loss is into a non heated space or an unwanted heated space - this number should be considered. If the tank is in a location that is also heated, then this number should not be considered).
Flue Loss	Loss only to gravity vent tanks - 3 to 4% per hour depending on flue size. The bigger the flue size - the higher the heat loss. Also, the higher the btu of the tank - the higher the heat loss.
Combustion Loss	This is due to the amount of inside air that is required to furnish the burners with oxygen in an average house with average insulation. This will be higher in tighter houses and lower in looser houses. (Example - an average 80,000 btu gravity vent boiler would require 4 times additional make up air from outside per hour than a similar direct vent heater.)
Steady State	Steady State Efficiency measures how efficiently a furnace converts fuel to heat, once the furnace has warmed up and is running steadily.
Actual Efficiency	This takes all the above in to consideration. (For Example - if you think that a gas storage tank has an efficiency of 80% - you would be wrong - it is more like 37 to 45%. Terrible! Ugh! And would be 50% less efficient than a low mass direct vent high efficiency boiler.)

How does a solar water-heating system work?

Solar Hydronic Heating FAQ's

What is Solar Energy? Solar energy is the radiation from the sun that reaches the earth. Using photovoltaic cells made from silicon alloys, sunlight can be converted into other forms of energy, such as heat and electricity. Solar cells can convert up to 22% of sunlight into electricity. Solar thermal energy is currently used for heating water for domestic use and for heating building space. Flat-plate solar energy collectors with a fixed orientation are generally used in these cases. Most consist of a flat-plate absorber to intercept and absorb solar energy; a transparent cover to allow solar energy to pass through; a heat-transport fluid flowing through tubes to remove heat from the absorber; and a heat-insulating backing.

How does a solar water-heating system work?  There are three main components of the solar system that works together to deliver heat from the sun to your faucet; the controller, the collectors and the circulation module. The controller is the brain of the system. It has one sensor on the roof and one sensor on your water tank. When the controller sees that the temperature on the roof is warmer than the temperature in your tank, it sends power to the circulation module. The circulation module is where the heat from solar is transferred to your water heater. It circulates water up to the roof to be warmed by the sun and it circulates water from your water tank. The heat is transferred from the solar water to the useable water via a heat exchanger inside the circulation module. The solar panels are where the energy is collected from the sun. The black plastic on your roof absorbs sunlight in both the visible and the invisible spectrums and turns it into heat. As the water flows through the panel, the heat is transferred to the water and then to the water heater in the heat exchanger.

Can a solar water heater replace an electric or gas water heater?  Not completely. Conventional electric or gas water heating systems are still necessary as a supplement to the solar water heating system, largely because the sun might not shine in a particular area for several days at a time. However, because solar water heaters are designed to provide hot water directly to the tank of a gas or electric water heater, they reduce the need for the water heater to run on conventional fuels. And this in turn reduces your gas or electric bill. Depending on where you live, solar water heaters can provide up to 80% of your home's annual water-heating needs.

Can solar water heaters be used in northern states and other colder climates?  Yes. Solar water heating technology is effective regardless of the outside temperature. In colder climates, more energy is required to heat cold incoming ground water, so using solar energy in such conditions could dramatically lower a consumer's utility bills. In addition, colder incoming ground water helps solar water heaters to operate at higher efficiencies.

Can I use a solar water-heating system to heat my swimming pool?  Using a solar system to heat a swimming pool is the most common use for solar energy in the United States today. Solar pool-heating systems increase an unheated pool's water temperature by 10 degrees or more, and they can extend the swimming season by two to three months. Solar system prices range from $2,500 to more than $5,000, depending on the size of your pool and other conditions, such as shading from nearby trees and buildings and how close the pool is to the ocean. When solar systems replace a conventional gas or electric swimming pool heater, the initial investment can usually be recovered in about three years or less, because of reductions in subsequent utility bills.

What are the benefits of using solar energy to heat water in my home?  First, the fuel is free! Once you recover the higher initial costs of a solar system through reduced or avoided energy costs (that is, lower utility bills), your solar system will require expenditures only for maintenance. And when you include the cost of a solar water heater in a mortgage on a new home, the system often provides a positive monthly cash flow from the first day of ownership. The Solar Buildings Program offers a free software program that allows you to determine how much money you'll save by installing a solar water heater in your new home. Second, solar water heaters and other solar technology applications do not pollute. They do not add to the carbon dioxide, nitrogen oxides, sulfur dioxide, and other air pollutants and wastes produced by most of today's power plants, even those that run on natural gas. And they allow you to burn less natural gas in your home, as well.

Aren't solar water heaters bulky and unattractive?  In the 1970s, solar water heating technology was being developed and installed quite rapidly in response to that decade's energy crisis. At that time, efficiency and ease of installation were the priorities, often at the expense of appearance. Many people thought that roof-mounted solar collectors were unsightly, even though they helped to reduce the amount of unsightly smoke billowing from coal-fired power plants! Still, the resulting attention to aesthetics has resulted in the "skylight" look of many of today's solar collectors.

How much does a solar water-heating system cost?  Unfortunately, there is no one answer to this question. The cost of a solar system depends on a number of factors, such as the size of the system and the particular system manufacturer, retailer, and installer. However, any solar rebates and other incentives available in your area will reduce that total cost. For solar water heaters and space heaters, you will also be taking into consideration the price of the fuel used to back up the system. In most cases, you will have to add in the cost of supplemental natural gas or electricity to get a fairly accurate estimate of how much you can expect to pay for a solar system. Installed costs vary widely, from $1,500 to more than $3,000. Some home builders are beginning to list solar water heaters as an option for their homes. Others include them as a standard feature in every home. In some cases, the builder or mortgage company may offer a lower interest rate when solar water heaters or other energy-efficient features are built into a new home, because the buyer can expect to save a significant amount of money on future energy bills. Although a solar water-heating system still costs more than a conventional electric or gas water heater, some states and utilities offer rebates that can reduce the total cost appreciably.

How much money will a solar water-heating system save on my utility bill?  It is difficult to say how much you will save with a solar system. That depends on several factors, including how much you already pay your local utility for electricity or natural gas. You can ask your solar system professional how much heat your new system will produce on an annual basis and then subtract that number from your current annual consumption (the total amount of electricity and gas you use) to get an idea of how much you will save. Data on your current annual consumption should be available from your utility.

How do I find out about financial incentives such as rebates or tax credits in my home state?  Several resources are available to help you obtain this information. To learn more about financial incentives in your area, please visit the Database of State Incentives for Renewable Energy (DSIRE) and contact your state's energy office. One caveat: any time you work with a contractor, it is wise to check references.

Please call us if you are seriously interested in installing a solar water-heating system at 866-432-8123.

Hydronic Heating Boilers available at Houseneeds.com

Hydronic Heating Boilers and Indirect Storage Tanks. Propane Boilers, Oil Boilers, Electric Boilers, Natural Gas Boilers and Wood Boilers!  Hydronic Boilers are one of the most efficient way to heat when coupled with radiant floor heat. For information about each product please click on the model below:

Embassy Onex Condensing Boilers                  Electro Electric Boilers

Sime Planet Dewy 30 BFT Gas Boiler             Biasi RivaPlus Gas Boilers 

Sime Planet Dewy 30/50 BFT                          Biasi Oil Fired Boilers

Sime FORMAT.zip 35BF Boiler                      Biasi Gas Boilers B-10 NG

Prestige Solo Boilers                                         Biasi Gas Boilers B-10 LP

Hydrotherm HWX Gas Boilers                         Prestige Excellence

Biasi Riva Gas Boilers                                      Sime Planet Dewy 60 BFR Boiler

Ray 200i Gas Boilers                                        Biasi Wood Hydronic Boilers

Firebird Condensing CI Oil Boilers                  Heat Transfer Versa Hydro

Hydrotherm HVX Series Gas Boilers

If you have any further questions please contact 866-432-8123. Thank you.

Substitute your heating between seasons with an electric space heater

Steibel-Eltron Electric Convection Heater - CNS 50 E - 231542  is a modern surface-mounted convection heater with a sleek European slimline design. CNS-E units are an effective, efficient replacement for traditional baseboard heaters, using significantly less room to accomplish the same heating task.
With its built-in thermostat, a single CNS 50 E is perfect as a stand-alone heating system in bathrooms or small rooms. Multiple CNS-E units can be placed strategically in larger spaces and their temperature settings adjusted individually for maximum comfort control. If used to replace an existing heater with a separate wall-mounted thermostat control, CNS-E heaters may be wired to use that control. Overheat protection is built into the unit.
CNS-E heaters work through natural convection, ensuring draft-free operation. Cool room air flows in the bottom of the unit, is warmed by the heating element, and rises silently out the top to heat the room. The CNS 50 E is designed with a frost protection setting. The lowest thermostat setting will maintain the room above freezing temperatures.
Like all of Stiebel Eltron's products the CNS 50 E series of heaters have an outstanding reliability record. Our three year limited parts warranty is a testament to the confidence we have in our products.

Econo Heater - Electric Panel Heaters  offer out-of-the-way wall mounting and is an economic way of providing efficient electric room heating at a low cost. The new style has the on/off switch on the back right side of the unit to give our new Panel Heaters a sleeker look. Also, the panel heaters have rounded edges.
Using convection technology, heat is mainly generated behind the heater in the space between the panel and the wall, which leads to an efficient up-draft of heat circulated into the room. Econo heaters principle of convection means that about 90% of the heat comes from the back of the panel, while only 10% is radiated from the front of the panel. This form of electric "background" heating is not only very economic, but also safe and efficient.

Electrical Baseboard Heaters / Electric Baseboard Heaters  in 120 Volt & 220/240 Volts.  Use Electrical Space and Room Heaters by Qmark Marley.  Available Electrical Baseboard  installed on walls or Electrical Portable Baseboard Heaters. Your choice. Entire range of Electrical Voltage Thermostats too.

Myson Electric Towel Warmers / Electric Towel Heaters Economical and efficient, a Myson Electric towel warmer is a decorative source of heat that will add comfort to the room as well as keeping your towels warm and dry.
Throughout this section you’ll discover a variety of elegant and fashionable designer towel warmers in our European, Contemporary, Classic and Gem Collections, all coupled with advanced technology to provide efficient and environmentally friendly ways to deliver heat with function and style.

What Size Electric Heater do I need? Click here to see.

For all our Electric Products please click here.

Please call with questions at 866-432-8123

How to Fill and Purge your Hydronic Heating Systems

A properly plumbed hydronic heating system makes it easy to add water and remove air, during the initial fill / purge and in later servicing.

We remove all of the air to make the hydronic heating system work mechanically correct. Small amounts of air can cause gurgling noises and large amounts of air can cavitate the circulators pumps causing the heating loop to stop flowing, resulting in a lack of heat.

When filling or purging a hydronic heating system, it is easiest when the system is broken down into smaller sections or loops. Each loop / zone is connected to the hydronic boiler fill valve and has the ability to be isolated from the other loops. Ball valves and drains isolate the system.

Water is introduced into the hydronic system in one way, flowing down the piping and out the boiler drain, carrying the air with it.

The process of isolating and filling is repeated until the hydronic system is full of water and the air removed.

Flushing the hydronic system works in reverse, replacing the old water with new.

Flushing the hydronic system is important. The hydronic heating system should be flushed to remove and flux or solder that may be mixed in the water.


This is only an example. Actual layouts vary from job to job.

For purge valves and heating supplies please click on the below link...

http://www.houseneeds.com/heating/hydronic-heat-supplies

Check out Houseneeds sale and clearance page

Take advantage of these cheap prices on Gas Space Heaters, Tankless Water Heaters, Hydronic Heating Supplies, Gas Boilers, Propane Boilers, Wood Stoves Accessories and more. Our Sale Items are always changing so check back often.

Sale Items at the link below....

http://www.houseneeds.com/sale

44 Clearance Items at the link below....

http://www.houseneeds.com/clearance

We ship via FEDEX throughout the United States - unless otherwise noted. These products are non-returnable and carry a full warranty unless otherwise stated.  Have any questions please call 866-432-8123.

Whole House Fans and Attic Fans

Whole House Fans, Attic Fans and Solar Attic Fans from Qmark Marley, Quiet Cool, Tamarack and HNSF. Whole House Fans and Whole House Attic Fans are a great way to keep your house cooler and save on Air Conditioner Bills.

Tamarack Whole House Fans

Whole House Fans pulls heat out of your home and attic bringing in cooler outside air. Save up to 30% on your a/c bills

 

Quiet Cool Whole House Fans

Quiet Cool Whole House Fans are designed to cool and vent your entire home by pulling warm up and out while drawing fresh cool air in.

 

Qmark Marley Attic Exhaust Fans

Qmark Attic Fans - Marley Roof Mounted Attic Exhaust Fans in 120 Volt Electric

 

HNSF Solar Attic Fan

HNSF Solar Attic Fan - 20 Watts Adjustable Solar Pane. Solar Powered Attic Cooling Fans

 

Qmark Marley Gable Attic Fans

Qmark Gable Attic Fans - Marley Gable Mounted Attic Exhaust Fans in 120 Volt Electric.

 

Eco-Breeze Fresh Air Cooling System

Eco-Breeze Fresh Air Cooling System - Window Unit - Eco-Breeze using Mother Nature to cool your rooms

 

Solatube Solar Attic Fans

Eco-friendly sun with Attci Fans that install on the Roof and Gable. You can easily, quickly and economically use the power of the sun to reduce attic heat.

 

Qmark Marley Gable Attic Fans

Qmark Gable Attic Fans - Marley Gable Mounted Attic Exhaust Fans in 120 Volt Electric

 

Please call Sales at www.houseneeds.com if you have any questions about the above products at 866-432-8123.

 

New Construction and PEX Radiant Heat FAQ's

1. What do I need?

To properly size most components related to your under floor heating system we highly recommend a heat loss calculation for your project if this is your primary heat source. Why? Heat loss is a critical step, as we can estimate the average output of a radiant floor at 25 to 35 BTU’s per square foot but windows, doors, insulation, and degree days all make a major impact on getting you just what you need.
The most common sizing mistake with in floor heat is in oversizing. This not only makes the new radiant heating system cost more to install, but also forces it to operate inefficiently, break down more often, and cost more to operate. Oversized heating equipment also often creates uncomfortable and large temperature swings in the house plus it will short cycle the hot water boiler and run outside the design parameters costing you more money.
We are not in the business of selling equipment that you don’t need and a little work up front can save you thousands of dollars in costs over the life of your system.

2. How do I calculate my heat loss?

Have your architect or builder supply it to you as in many states like NH or CA it is required.  Calculate it yourself using software - go back to the Heat Lost Calucator under Pex Tubing Radiant Installs. Or use one of the two different rough guides below.
Insulation Type and Climate Zone
(Please Note: We highly recommend that you do a heat loss calculation and provide the information below as a starting place)
 1)  No insulation in walls, ceilings, or floors; no storm windows; windows and doors fit loosely .... 60 to 100 BTU's per Sq. Ft.
2)  R-11 insulation in walls and ceilings; no insulation in floors over crawl spaces; no storm windows; doors and windows fit fairly tight .... 50 to 60 BTU's per Sq. Ft.
3)  R-19 insulation in walls, R-30 in ceilings, and R-11 in floors; tight-fitting storm windows or double pane windows .... 29 to 35 BTU's per Sq. Ft.
4)  "Energy Star Rated" house with R-24+ wall insulation, R-40 in ceilings, and R-19 in floor; tight-fitting storm windows or double pane windows; vapor barrier sealed carefully during construction .... 20 to 25 BTU's per Sq. Ft.
5)  SIP or Earth-sheltered house with little exposure; argon filled windows, and R40+ insulated .... 10 to 15 BTU's per Sq. Feet.

Climate Zone

Heating Sq. Footage by Climate Zone for a pre-1970's House
Houston, TX ZONE 1 --> 15 - 25 Btu's per square foot
Los Angles, CA ZONE 2 --> 25 - 30 Btu's per square foot
St. Louis, MO ZONE 3 --> 30 - 40 Btu's per square foot
New York, NY ZONE 4 --> 40 - 50 Btu's per square foot
Minneapolis, MN ZONE 4 --> 50 - 60 Btu's per square foot

Outdoor Design Temperature

The Outdoor Design Temperature (ODT), also referred to as the 2.5% design day temperature, is not the coldest day ever, but rather a temperature that is achieved 97.5% of the time.
Examples:
ODT Chicago = - 8 Degree F
ODT Denver = 1 Degree F
ODT Minnesota = -12 Degree F
ODT Washington = 17Degree F
Simply multiply the appropriate factor above by your home's total heated square footage to arrive at your approximate required heating capacity. For example, if you live in Zone 3, your home is well insulated, and you have 2000 heated square feet, the equation will look like this:
 2000 square feet of "Energy Star" grade new construction but with lots of windows = 35 BTU's per sq ft. is 70,000 Btu Load
Then, to calculate the output on a hot water boiler, multiply its efficiency rating by its listed input rating for the actual Btu output of heat. An example of a medium efficiency boiler. Of course, this is a very simple way to look at efficiency - but actually, it is more complicated. Factors such as, how long does it take to get to efficiency, condensing, direct vent or not, using pex and amound of water in the boiler all effect true efficiency.
87,000 Btu input X .86 efficiency = 73,000 Btu actual output

3. Existing Heating System

All hot water boilers sold in the U.S. must have a rating plate. Check the rating plate and get the:
1) For Example --> 92,000 Btu Input of your Hot Water Boiler X .80 efficiency of your Boiler = 73,000 Btu actual output
2) Count the total linear footage of baseboard in the home. Multiply this number by 600 BTU’s. This will give you the BTU output at 180 Degrees F. This number should be close to the Boilers actual output.
There are a few ways to calculate heat loss. Use the above information to get a rough idea. We strongly recommend that you download a heat loss calculator. Why? Because windows and doors make a huge difference to the heat load of your home. Once you have an idea of your requirements, we will be able to get you a quote.

4. Ways to install Radiant PEX with an existing floor

PEX Tubing Under the Floor - Typically under hardwood or tile flooring
PEX In Floor - Typlically in poured cement
PEX Over Floor - Typlically using ThermalBoard, VersaTherm or Creatherm Radiant Heat Mass

5. Radiant Slab on Grade

For residential slabs we recommend 1/2 Inch PEX tubing to be 12 Inch on center. Along walls with lots of glass or high heat loss the PEX should be 6 Inch to 9 Inch on center on the outside walls for the first 2 feet, and 12 Inch on center everywhere else.

When figuring the over all length of tubing you will need you divide any 6 Inch spacing area by .5, divide any 9 Inch spacing area by .75 and any 12" spacing area by 1. This will give you the over all length of the PEX needed in the slab. You will need to add the length of tubing needed to get up to the pex manifold.

Typically pex manifolds are mounted 18 Inch to 24 Inch off the slab.

6. Installing PEX Tubing

Following good piping practices the maximum length of each 1/2 Inch PEX tubing runs should be no longer than 300 feet (300-foot maximum is code in many places). When the pipe loops exceed 300 feet you need to use larger circulators (pumps) to maintain this temperature drop. With larger circulators initial cost is higher and they usually require twice as much electricity to run. Most good radiant installers try to limit piping loops to below 300 feet.

There are many correct ways of installing in floor heat PEX within a slab. The best way is tying the PEX to the reinforcing mesh or rebar. When attaching the PEX Tubing to wire reinforcing mesh or rebar it is recommend that a zip tie be used every 2 feet of PEX Tubing.

Another way to install PEX in a slab is attaching the PEX Tubing to ridged insulation. The use of insulation screw clips or large plastic staples is common.

We recommend an insulation screw clip or staple every 2 feet if installing the tubing over insulation only (no wire mesh). If you use 2 Inch polystyrene insulation it is recommended that you use a 6 mil. polyethylene moisture barrier.

Installing the manifolds and keeping the lines under pressure (air or water pressure) for the concrete pour is highly recommended and required by code in many locations.

7. Insulation

Insulation is always needed with any radiant heating system and especially needed under slabs. Why, if the soil has any moisture in it the moisture will wick away the heat at a tremendous rate making your system inefficient.

Today many radiant slabs being installed with insulation only around the perimeter. Their belief is that you should store the heat in the ground for use later. One problem with this notion is that a large portion of the heat is absorbed into the ground and never warms your home. Why do you want to pay to heat the ground? Slab Insulation is important for the entire slab.

We recommend Slab Shield Insulation which was designed specifically for under slab applications. Manufactured using two separate layers of 1/4 Inch polyethylene foam with a pure aluminum center. This product is available in 4 Feet x 63 Feet rolls for easy application. It is simply unrolled and taped together (this is necessary for a complete vapor barrier to be achieved). With Slab-Shield there's no time wasted installing 4 Feet x 8 Feet foam boards. With a puncture resistance of 92.9psi you can work and walk on top of it without it crumbling apart.

8. Here's a rough idea of what it will cost

Below are some pricing guidelines. These numbers are higher than most proposals, but can act as a "stand-in" as you're creating your construction budget.

Mid Efficiency (87%+) hot water boiler: $1,500 to $3,000
High Efficiency (95%+) hot water boiler: $2,200 to $5,500
Per zone controls: $250.00 ea. zone
Slab on grade Radiant: $1.20 per square
Wood Underfloor Radiant: $1.70 Per square
Myson radiators: $260 per 5000 BTU
People consider radiant heating for its superior economic and comfort advantages. But with energy prices rising 35%+ this year, whichever efficient system you choose, you’ll appreciate the cost savings!

To view Houseneeds products follow this link:
http://www.houseneeds.com/heating

How to Size Copper Tees for Hydronic Heating Systems

Tees are generally measured from the "Run" to the "Bull".

The "Run" is the left-to-right or the length of the Tee.

The "Bull" is the top part of the Tee.

For example if a Tee is 3/4" X 3/4" X 1/2", then the left inside diameter is 3/4", the right inside diameter is 3/4" and the top inside diameter part is 1/2". Tees where the run and the bull are not uniform are referred to as "Reducing Tees".


Click on the product links below to view sale items:

Monoflow Tees

Copper Tees

45° Copper Elbows

90° Copper Elbows

Copper Couplings

End Caps

Sharkbite Lead Free

Copper Adapters

Boiler Drains

Baseboard Tees

Brass Fittings

Eco Breeze the Humidity and Temperature Solution

Whole-house fans were mainly popularized in the United States through the 1950s-60s as an inexpensive method to cool homes. A whole house fan uses fresh air ventilation cooling which is simple and much lower in cost than air conditioning cooling. The fan cools the house by drawing cool outdoor air inside through open windows and exhausting hot indoor air through the attic to the outside. As the outdoor temperature drops in the evening, the windows are opened and the fan is turned on. In the morning the process is reversed. The fan is turned off and the windows are closed, trapping cool air in the home and sealing out the hot day time air. Since the 1950’s, whole-house fans have been improved with insulated vent doors, quieter fans and motors, and remote controls but the fundamental manual cooling process of opening and closing of windows remains unchanged.

Eco Breeze – The Paradigm shift
Eco Breeze provides the same low cost fresh air ventilation cooling in a completely different way. The result is reduced fan noise, convenient operation, lower installation cost, and improved comfort.

Monitors outside temperature and humidity – No more humid air
High humidity makes us uncomfortable and makes air conditioners work harder to remove moisture. Eco Breeze monitors outdoor humidity and only provides fresh air cooling when the outside air is dry and cool.

Individual room cooling – Quiet operation
Eco Breeze is designed to cool individual rooms rather than the whole-house. This produces the same air tangential fanchanges as a whole house fan yet requires a fraction of the air flow. The lower air flow and the use of tangential blowers makes the unit significantly quieter than a whole-house fan. The fan power is also a fraction of a whole house fan resulting in energy savings even when multiple fans are installed in a home.

Simple Installation – No holes to the attic – No Installation cost
The Eco Breeze installation is simple and can be done in minutes. It installs in a window and does not require cutting holes to access an attic, the addition of attic ventilation openings or the addition of electrical wiring.

Automated Operation – No windows to open and close
Eco Breeze exhausts the hot air to the outdoors and also brings the cool air into a room. The louvers automatically open to provide cooling and automatically close to seal the cool air inside ending the daily routine of opening and closing windows.

Seamless integration with air conditioning – No need to turn off the air conditioner
Eco Breeze monitors the indoor temperature and humidity and will only bring in the outside air if it is lower in temperature and humidity. The air conditioner thermostat will sense the cooler air and keep the air conditioner off.

Optimum use of Fresh Air Cooling – No more guessing
Eco Breeze has a dynamic temperature and humidity sensing system that automatically uses outside fresh air for cooling any time that it is available. In midsummer fresh air cooling may be available for a few hours a day in the late night and early morning in even the hottest regions. Eco Breeze will automatically save money even when you are sleeping. In the other seasons, Eco Breeze can operate mornings, evenings, and nights, and sometimes sizeable parts of the daytime.

Rain Guard System – No wet floors
Eco Breeze has a unique rain guard to prevent rain from blowing into your room even when it is operating. This completely eliminates the hassle of closing windows during rain storms.

 

For further information please call 866-432-8123 or click on the below link:

http://www.houseneeds.com/exhaust-fans-air-quality/whole-house-attic-fans/eco-breeze-window-cooling-system-fan

Eco Breeze FAQ's http://www.houseneeds.com/learning-center/house-fans-ventilation-erv-hrv-hep-filters/eco-breeze-faq

 

How To Solder Copper Pipes

Caution: Please read and understand all safety information before attempting maintenance or repairs. Wear eye protection and gloves when soldering pipes and when working with flux. Flux is a toxic substance. Some equipment may rely on a cold water supply. Take appropriate steps to shut down any equipment that may be adversely affected by shutting off the water supply. Such equipment includes, but is not limited to, a boiler or other heating system.

Note: Because you are working with a flame, often in a confined space, be aware of flammable materials near where you are working. In some cases, you may need to set up a non-flammable heat shield between the solder joint and flammable material nearby. Check with your local authority for applicable codes about the work you wish to perform and the necessity of permits before you begin your project.

When copper pipes are fitted together, there is a very small gap between the two pieces. When the pipes are heated, and solder is touched to the pipes, the solder melts and is drawn up into the gap through capillary action. Once the gap is filled, and the heat removed, the solder forms a seal and makes a watertight joint. Soldering pipes is easy once you get the hang of it. The key is to recognize that you are heating the pipes, not the solder. The heated copper melts the solder. Follow the steps in this guide and you should be able to make watertight joints. It is recommended that you practice a few times on some spare parts until you feel confident.



Step 1

Step 1 - Remove all burrs from the inside and outside edges of the pipe with a de-burring brush.  Small burrs can result in a variety of problems in the lifespan of the water supply system.

Step 2 - Clean the outside of the pipe. If the copper is not clean, the solder may not bond properly  Clean the outside of the copper pipe to a brilliant shine with a copper pipe cleaning brush, or simply use steel wool or emery cloth. If the copper is not clean, the solder may not bond properly and the joint may leak.

Step 3 -Clean the inside of the female fitting

Step 4 -Clean the inside of the female fitting in the same way as in step

Step 2

Step 5 - Apply acid-free flux to both the outside of the male fitting and the inside of the female fittin

Step 6 - Apply acid-free flux to both the outside of the male fitting and the inside of the female fitting. Flux further cleans the copper plus helps to prevent oxidation as the pipe heats up. If the pipe becomes oxidized, the joint may leak.

Step 7 - Join the two pieces securely together Join the two pieces securely together. Unroll about four inches of solder and straighten it. You will use the roll or container as a handle when applying the solder. Light the torch and apply the flame to the joint. Move the flame around to ensure that you heat the pipe on the opposite side from you.




Step 3 Clean the inside of fitting in the same way as in Step 1

 

 



Step 8 - When the flux begins to bubble and spit, touch the tip of the solder to the joint Once the joint will take no more solder it will build up outside of the joint and begin to drip. Care should be taken at this point. Disrupting a joint as it cools can result in a dry joint also known as a leak. Once the joint has hardened, it can be wiped. This is the part where experience/practice helps. Some people use a dry rag, so the joint can be cleaned, but not cooled to the point, where it creates a dry/leaky.



Step 5






Step 4





Step 6









NOTES:

1)  Always check for leaks after the pipe has cooled.

2)  If you overheat the copper, it will oxidize and that prevents the solder from bonding.

3)  If the joint leaks, you must open the joint, remove all the solder and start over by cleaning the metal and applying flux. It may be easier to start over with new fittings.

4)  Always use lead-free solder.

5)  Make sure the pipes are completely dry or it will interfere with the bonding of the solder.

6)  If you cannot completely stop the flow of water from the pipe you are working on, it may be impossible to heat the pipe hot enough. Take a wad of white bread (without the crust) and stuff it into the pipe. This will hold the water back for a minute or two. After that the bread will dissolve harmlessly in the pipe and is easily flushed out.

7)  Specialty parts may have requirements to disassemble seals or other components. Please read all instructions from each manufacturer.

8)  When sweating ball valves, it is best to point the flame away from the piece, sweating the ball valve as quick as possible.

If you use MAPP gas instead of propane, it burns much hotter and will heat the copper very quickly compared to propane. If you are used to propane, practice with MAPP before beginning work.

Please visit www.houseneeds.com for fittings